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Date:         Mon, 5 Mar 2012 01:10:20 -0500
Reply-To:     neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: All the gears but second
Comments: To: Mike South <msouth@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CAN483vdj1OJ-Z2s2SC5SxZ5w9Ub3fQmEX3o9K+qE3uy+HCFUQA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I will be completely honest in saying I didn't read through your entire email. But....

:)

The deformations in the M/F parts of the front and rear linkage can be "massaged" with basic hand tools: sockets and what not. I would suggest annealing (heating) the female, and/or male part, and shape as needed (don't ask how I know this.... In short, haha, I adapted a WBX transmission and linkage to an engine positioned as per the air cooled engine; all told, the linkage had to be shortened)

Image of shortening linkage:

image of parts after I "massaged" them, note the weld: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GByIZGfOy3M/S8JHcSxJggI/AAAAAAAACyA/Qlg5ksYYlcA/s640/ShiftLinkage_cutInstalled.jpg

re: the 23mm Bentley specs. I assume you're measuring your socket on the OD ?

Here's how I did it. A strip of metal used as a gauge:

Image: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YxGvKrXgWNI/S_bYA3gXeeI/AAAAAAAADFw/EeODBTIsWwU/s640/FrontShiftRod_23mmMetal.jpg

Neil.

On Mon, Mar 5, 2012 at 12:35 AM, Mike South <msouth@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, > > I have an 85 Westy, formerly AT, that I am in (what I really I really, > dearly hope are) the final stages of converting to a manual > transmission. I took it for my first test drive with everything > hooked up and, as I said in the subject, I can get it to go into every > gear but second. > > The front and back shift rods (by which I mean the long rods that run > from the bottom of the lever at the front of the van back to the > ball-and-cup thing at the back) were clamped together by the previous > owner so hard that there are four indentations in the rods where the > corners of the clamps have bitten into the rods. Because of these > indentations it is relatively easy to get it into the position that it > used to be in (since you have that "convenient" (I say sarcastically) > "stop" point), but getting it to move further in or out from that > point is more of a challenge. > > I am wondering if people can tell me how far into the back rod their > front rod is inserted. When I look at mine from the side, I can still > see the end of the front rod in the slit in the back rod. I would be > able to see daylight through there if there was daylight to see under > the van, and I think I could fit a thin finishing nail through there, > but not much else. > > Here is the "logic", such as it is, that I am applying to think I > might be able to make an adjustment to the rods to get it to go into > 2nd. Since second gear is with the lever inside the van pulled > backwards, that means it's pulling the lever on the transmission > forward, and *if* it's not getting into gear because it's not moving > it forward enough, it could be helped by me shoving the front rod > further into the back rod, shortening the overall length, so that when > it pulls forward, it pulls further forward. > > I would just go down there, try that, and see if it worked except that > it's going to be both difficult to do, and difficult to undo, because > the rods are deformed by the aforementioned pinching, so I thought I > would bounce it off y'all first and see if you think it makes sense to > try or would be a waste of time. > > Also One More Thing That Might Be Relevant > > I did that lateral adjustment thing in the bentley where you are > supposed to have 23mm between the ear and the guide in the front shift > box (at least that's what I think it's showing). When I put in a > socket (that was actually 23.4 mm or so wide) in the position shown, > the left side ear was all the way against the box. It doesn't look > like that's what they were going for in the picture. I'm mentioning > it in case having that adjustment wrong could be the issue, and also > to ask others where the left ear is when the right is 23mm from the > guide (or if I'm interpreting that picture wrong). > > Thanks for any help you might be able to offer. > > I should also mention two things about the transmission itself. One, > it's a zero miles rebuild from AA Transaxle. This is the first time I > have used it. Two, I did get it to go into second, once, when I was > cornering I think. So I'm guessing that the transmission can "do it". > > One other thing I guess is that, since it's second, I guess I can try > putting it in second by hand (disconnecting the ball from the cup and > putting it into second by hand, then starting off on a hill or > something and see if it is actually in gear that way, to eliminate the > possibility that there's anything wrong in the transmission itself. > Advice on "how you know it's in second when you're shifting it by > hand" would also be appreciated. I'll probably lie under there while > someone else shifts it before disconnecting just to make sure my > mental picture is correct before trying that. Should be easy to tell > if I put it in 2nd or 4th though when I let off the clutch, I guess. > > One more thing, this is also a zero miles Bostig conversion. It's > possible that it could be sitting in the vehicle slightly differently > (like the whole transmission could be pulled a little left or right) > than it would with the original engine. I don't necessarily have any > reason for thinking this would be enough to matter, but I don't want > to leave anything out that could possibly be relevant. > > Thanks for any insight you guys might have on any of it. > > mike >

-- Neil n

65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp

'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines


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