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Date:         Mon, 5 Mar 2012 10:12:48 -0500
Reply-To:     Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Running cold...
Comments: To: Jim McGuckin <teammcguck@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <9F759A26-3D6C-40C3-BCA3-FE153531FCB6@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Jim, et al, What I like to do is to take a few minutes, go through every check that is listed in the Bentley for the sensors in the fuel injection system. This takes about 30 mins with an ohm meter/volt meter but usually you find your problem this way very quickly. It is a methodical way of troubleshooting and it has always served me well over the years. Where most people fail is that they start testing this, then they jump to that, then something else and by the time they get there they have forgotten what they originally checked/didn't check. If you need to, copy the page out of the Bentley, put a note on the page of the test result you got, that way you can reference it in the future if you need further guidance.

In my experience, temp sensors and the grounds and wiring for them are highly suspect on the digijet vans. On the digifant vans the sensor itself more so than the wiring to it. If you are testing a temp II sensor with the van cold and you are wondering if the reading you are getting is a good one or not, a quick check would be to also do the test for the temp I sensor which is in the air flow meter. With the van cold, first thing in the morning, both of these sensors should have the same resistance reading. If they do not then see which one is right according to the chart and then investigate the other one further. I have never seen a temp I sensor be bad yet so normally they will read correctly and the temp II will read with a higher resistance because it has gone faulty or the wiring or grounds are messed up. If you check it at the ECU plug and it reads high but when you test it at the sensor itself it reads normal then you know it is not the sensor but the wiring or ground. Then you can check these with a meter to see where the fault lies. The whole thing, if you do it methodically, should only take 30 mins to find your smoking gun.

That said, if you check all of these things, at least you can rule them out. Come back to the list and I will show you how to troubleshoot the more exotic causes of this rich running issue. About 90 % of the time you will find the problem right here with the temp II sensor or wiring.

-- Thanks, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com Phone: 856-327-4936 Fax: 856-327-2242

On 3/5/2012 8:16 AM, Jim McGuckin wrote: > Mine is and has been doing the same even after replacing both coolant sensors and unplugging the O2. My gas mileage has even gone as low as 9mpg on a highway trip this past weekend. I'm scratching my head as I sit here. > > Sent from MAC's iPhone > > On Mar 5, 2012, at 8:02 AM, B Feddish<uprightbassghost@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote: > >> Lately my 83.5 wc Westy has been been running a bit colder than normal. The normal spot for the temp needle is just to the left of the led while driving and lately it’s been about 2/3rds of the way to the LED. I’ve been running rich lately too with diminished performance and lousy gas mileage around town (14mpg) but not sure if they are related. >> >> Thanks, >> Bryan


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