Date:         Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:09:25 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Rear Brake set up-The spacers
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

VW did not always use self-adjusting drum brakes. On the non-self-adjusting
versions  the lower shoe rests were the adjusters. There was a star wheel,
(nut) (113609205) and the slotted post (pin) (211609279) and two holes in
the backing plate that allowed you to reach in with a screwdriver to make
adjustments. This was regular maintenance. So as the shoes wore the bottoms
were adjusted out to compensate so with regular care the entire shoe was
worn and the entire friction surface was used.  Most American cars with
self-adjusting brakes use various methods to work the same way. VW decided
to go the way of placing the adjusting mechanism as the same end as the
cylinders. It should be noted that most air brake drum set ups on trucks
work the same way, (slack adjusters).



Now this works well if everything is the proper dimensions, especially the
match between drum diameter and shoe thickness. A problem is that I have yet
to find replacement brake shoes that have the proper pad thickness or a
satisfactory material. For years I went to the dealer and got the OEM shoe
sets but they are no longer available. The original shoe linings were
riveted, metallic, high friction linings with a thickness of 6mm. The
aftermarket shoes are only 4mm and the linings are soft. It is also common
for some shoes to have the linings reversed (leading-trailing) or on the
shoe in the wrong place. Shimming the bottom compensates for the thinner
linings. This can also compensate for worn drums. The nuts and pins I
mentioned above will fit perfectly on the Vanagon if you want to add
adjustability. Since there are no detent springs to keep them from turning I
do not know if that could be a problem so I use shims. 2-3mm on each shoes
is a very good starting point.



As these are self-adjusting brakes, I do not do any fine adjustment before
placing the drums. I want to know the self-adjusters work.  I want to hear
them click!



I have posted in the past instructions for installing and setting up the
rear brakes. There are a few details that are critical.

The top springs have to be in the correct position, center hooks face up.
Otherwise they will hit the adjuster nut.

The pushrod thread has to be able to turn freely. No grease or anti-seize. A
dry lube like lock-ease.

The handbrake cable needs to be properly adjusted. This cannot be done with
the drum in place. You need to see the lever.

After placing the shoes leave off the adjuster lever spring. The push rod
should be installed with the front chamfer facing the backing plate and on
the rear fork, the longer tang goes against the shoe. The shorter tang goes
in front of the lever. Adjust the push rod to take up the slack but do not
actually push out the shoes. Now notice how the hand brake can swing. Pull
forward and connect the brake cable. There should be about 1/16" between the
lever and the pushrod. Adjust the cable to give this on both sides.  If the
cables appear to be binding or the outer jackets are collapsed or distorted
the cables need to be replaced.

After this is sorted install the drums and make sure they are fully seated.
If needed bleed the brakes. Pumping the pedal will work the adjusters and if
there is any slack you should hear them click as they turn one notch with
each pedal push. Oh , and you want cylinders that have the inner springs to
prevent the pistons from retracting. This was recently a big discussion
here. ATE!



I hope this helps.



Dennis