Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:11:39 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: '86 Westy coolant questions
In-Reply-To: <CAE7FAJs_jvrTMh9uofAmSzjviQ6cKFpwn85d1DwjmjZtN0y65g@mail.gmail.com>
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Karen,
Welcome to the list. Please don't take this the wrong way but one of the
most important parts of operating a vehicle, especially an older one is
knowing how things should work and what should be happening and when. I'm
not saying that you need to be a mechanic but you should be familiar with
how the vehicle support systems, (cooling, lubrication, charging, etc.) as
you are with braking and steering.
Since everything was well until you were stuck in traffic the most likely
problem is lack of cooling at low vehicle speeds. The Vanagon relies on air
flow over the radiator while the vehicle travels down the road. At low
speeds or when idling there is an electric radiator fan that turns on to
provide the needed air flow when the vehicle is not moving fast enough. You
can hear this turn on. It has two speeds in case the low speed cannot do the
job. This fan is also used for the air conditioner if you have it. If the
fan is needed and does not work at some point the pressure will build up in
the cooling system and cause the coolant to blow out through the pressure
relief. At this point you can start doing some engine damage.
There are two main causes of the cooling fan not working. The usual one is
electrical. The fan switch is located on the radiator, lower grill drivers
side. The switch could be bad, a fuse blown, or any number of other things
including even a bad fan motor. This is very rare though. Any shop should be
able to locate the switch, un plug it, and jump the connector and test that
both fan speeds work. There is also a fan resistor that will prevent the fan
from working at low speed.
The other cause can be much more complicated. I am referring to coolant
flow. There are a number of problems that can prevent the proper flow of
coolant to the radiator. Clogs, bad thermostat, air/combustion gasses in the
cooling system, low coolant level, etc. If the hot coolant does not flow to
and through the radiator the fan switch will not sense the coolant to turn
on the fan further compounding the problem.
As for checking-adding coolant, there are two reservoirs, the main coolant
(pressure tank) and the recovery tank. The main tank is the one inside the
engine compartment to the left rear. This is the important tank. The cap on
top is the pressure control/release for the system. Any time there is a
significant loss of coolant this is the tank that needs to be filled. The
engine should be cold while filling and running to pump the coolant through
the system. Depending on the amount lost the system may also need to bled.
The recovery tank, (behind the license plate), captures coolant from
expansion and returns it to the main tank when the engine cools. This help
to get all air out of the system and when things are working right the main
tank will be completely filled. It is important the proper 50/50 mix of
coolant is used.
Now to the gauge and warning lights. Every time you go to start the engine
you want to check that the warning lights work. Key on, engine off, you
should see the oil pressure, alternator, and the temp-low coolant light. The
coolant light should go out after a short time delay. The oil pressure and
alternator lights should go out shortly after the engine starts. Sometimes
the engine may need to be reved slightly to get the alternator light to turn
off.
If the alternator light should turn on while driving you need to stop as
soon as safe. It may just be an electrical issue or something mechanical
suach as the belt has failed. This belt also drives the coolant pump. If the
pump stops turning the coolant will stop flowing. DO NOT think that you are
ok to drive until the temperature gage rises. The temp sensor relies on the
coolant flowing past it. No coolant flow, no reading until such time that
the coolant is hot enough to make steam and nasty things then happen. For
the coolant warning light this is activated for both low coolant and over
temperature. If just the light comes on, you've lost coolant. Again you need
to find out why as enough coolant loss will stop the gauge from indicating
the over temp that will soon follow. Both a high gauge and warning light
means you are overheating. There are some situations where this can be
expected but you need to address it.
The oil pressure warning light along with a buzzer have a number of warning
conditions. You can check the archives. I think I confused you enough with
the coolant. Hopefully I was able to help.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Karen Doherty
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:04 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: '86 Westy coolant questions
Hi all, I'm new to the list but so happy to find y'all!
I've had my Westy almost a year. Two days ago, in start/stop traffic on the
highway in 80 degree temp, the temp needle rose and eventually the red light
came on. I pulled over, and saw the reservoir coolant level way low.
Added coolant. Made it home another 15 miles no problem. Next morning I
check the reservoir, almost empty again.
I am in southwestern Ohio, but returning home to Maine on April 14th, with
two cats who, shall we say, dislike travel. So...time is of the essence, but
so is a worry-free trip.
I took it to the one recommended mechanic in town, who used to own an '87
Syncro. He seemed less than excited about working on it, and went on about
how difficult they are to work on and that's why he sold his blah blah blah
but yeah go ahead and bring it in I'll take a look.
My problem is...I am not at all mechanically minded, not do I know how much
this should cost.
I don't know how to find another mechanic, and this place has a "good
reputation but also a reputation for being expensive".
Any thoughts on this would be most welcome and appreciated! Some have
suggested bubble of air in the system. I have no idea how much this repair
should cost.
Karen
