Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (April 2012, week 1)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Fri, 6 Apr 2012 16:03:28 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: '86 Westy coolant questions
Comments: To: Karen Doherty <freshwindbrightsky@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAE7FAJsR3KQxJrcmtxbs86yU_ESOgifNkdyxbN+LpQ+dRYcB6g@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

It is a common problem for the main pressure tank to crack along with the cap and/or sensor. Regular maintenance should include pressure testing the system especially the cap. The tank can turn color as it ages. I sue this as a sign that it is time for replacement.

As for turn signals-flashers there are no relays in the back. There is a "flasher" on the fuse-relay box and the wiring is a bit complicated. If both sides are out look for a blown fuse or a harness somewhere might be disconnected. Try cycling the emergency flasher switch as this can prevent the turn signals from working.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Karen Doherty Sent: Friday, April 06, 2012 11:12 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: '86 Westy coolant questions

Dennis, thank you, I am printing that out! I know I do need to know more than I do, this is a good lesson learned and hopefully it will turn out not to be a super-expensive lesson! I really appreciate your taking the time to help me to learn!! Not taken wrong way at all. I am a sponge and WANT to understand. ;-)

Here is an update on the situation;

I took it in to the guy in town; Andy at Spring St Auto in Oxford OH. Fans are working. They did a pressure test and he said they "finally got it to reveal a leak" around the rear reservoir. He suggests I replace the rear tank, sensor and cap, and that he doesn't know if that's gonna fix it. MEANWHILE, I drive it off the lot there and realize my blinkers are not working, nor are emergency flashers. I return, they do some checking, determining the fuses are good and there is power to the fuses. He kinda shrugged, said it might be a relay, and that "there's a first time for everything to break"...my sense was that he is not gonna own this. Another friend of mine tells me there is a wire to a relay near the rear that they might have jiggled loose. The mechanic sent me on my way without blinkers working or doing anything more and said he'd see about ordering the coolant part. He called this morning to say he can get it, and do I want to go ahead and have him order it?. (coolant reservoir tank, sensor, cap.)

Another on this list (Thanks Roger!!) recommended a mechanic in Cincinnati, an hour from here. I called them, and they are skeptical about the first diagnosis by Andy. I asked if it was safe to drive to Cincy, and he said well...pull over right away if it starts to overheat. Now, I did drive it a good 15-20 miles home after the one and only overheat that was in stop&go highway traffic...and it was fine. So my inclination is to start towards Cincy. I do have AAA.

Also, not knowing any better, I put straight coolant into the reservoir. Is that going to really mess things up? Not sure what they did at Spring St Auto when doing pressure test, i will ask them if they filled the tanks and with what.

RE: Dennis suggestion about fan not working...I have been noticing a little electrical oddity in that one time recently the buzzer for the seat belt went off. Just once! It surprised me as I did not know there was one. And sometimes when I open the passenger door, the inside light on driver's side comes on (yay!) but sometimes not. It's 50/50. So maybe maybe there is a short somewhere and this one time in traffic the fan did not come on. I will bring all this to Vogt Auto in Cncy.

Again thanks and a deep bow of appreciation to y'all!

Karen Doherty

On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 8:11 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:

> Karen, > Welcome to the list. Please don't take this the wrong way but one of > the most important parts of operating a vehicle, especially an older > one is knowing how things should work and what should be happening and > when. I'm not saying that you need to be a mechanic but you should be > familiar with how the vehicle support systems, (cooling, lubrication, > charging, etc.) as you are with braking and steering. > > Since everything was well until you were stuck in traffic the most > likely problem is lack of cooling at low vehicle speeds. The Vanagon > relies on air flow over the radiator while the vehicle travels down > the road. At low speeds or when idling there is an electric radiator > fan that turns on to provide the needed air flow when the vehicle is > not moving fast enough. You can hear this turn on. It has two speeds > in case the low speed cannot do the job. This fan is also used for the > air conditioner if you have it. If the fan is needed and does not work > at some point the pressure will build up in the cooling system and > cause the coolant to blow out through the pressure relief. At this > point you can start doing some engine damage. > > There are two main causes of the cooling fan not working. The usual > one is electrical. The fan switch is located on the radiator, lower > grill drivers side. The switch could be bad, a fuse blown, or any > number of other things including even a bad fan motor. This is very > rare though. Any shop should be able to locate the switch, un plug it, > and jump the connector and test that both fan speeds work. There is > also a fan resistor that will prevent the fan from working at low > speed. > > The other cause can be much more complicated. I am referring to > coolant flow. There are a number of problems that can prevent the > proper flow of coolant to the radiator. Clogs, bad thermostat, > air/combustion gasses in the cooling system, low coolant level, etc. > If the hot coolant does not flow to and through the radiator the fan > switch will not sense the coolant to turn on the fan further > compounding the problem. > > As for checking-adding coolant, there are two reservoirs, the main > coolant (pressure tank) and the recovery tank. The main tank is the > one inside the engine compartment to the left rear. This is the > important tank. The cap on top is the pressure control/release for the > system. Any time there is a significant loss of coolant this is the > tank that needs to be filled. The engine should be cold while filling > and running to pump the coolant through the system. Depending on the amount lost the system may also need to bled. > The recovery tank, (behind the license plate), captures coolant from > expansion and returns it to the main tank when the engine cools. This > help to get all air out of the system and when things are working > right the main tank will be completely filled. It is important the > proper 50/50 mix of coolant is used. > > Now to the gauge and warning lights. Every time you go to start the > engine you want to check that the warning lights work. Key on, engine > off, you should see the oil pressure, alternator, and the temp-low coolant light. > The > coolant light should go out after a short time delay. The oil pressure > and alternator lights should go out shortly after the engine starts. > Sometimes the engine may need to be reved slightly to get the > alternator light to turn off. > > If the alternator light should turn on while driving you need to stop > as soon as safe. It may just be an electrical issue or something > mechanical suach as the belt has failed. This belt also drives the > coolant pump. If the pump stops turning the coolant will stop flowing. > DO NOT think that you are ok to drive until the temperature gage > rises. The temp sensor relies on the coolant flowing past it. No > coolant flow, no reading until such time that the coolant is hot > enough to make steam and nasty things then happen. For the coolant > warning light this is activated for both low coolant and over > temperature. If just the light comes on, you've lost coolant. Again > you need to find out why as enough coolant loss will stop the gauge > from indicating the over temp that will soon follow. Both a high gauge > and warning light means you are overheating. There are some situations > where this can be expected but you need to address it. > > The oil pressure warning light along with a buzzer have a number of > warning conditions. You can check the archives. I think I confused you > enough with the coolant. Hopefully I was able to help. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On > Behalf Of Karen Doherty > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:04 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: '86 Westy coolant questions > > Hi all, I'm new to the list but so happy to find y'all! > > I've had my Westy almost a year. Two days ago, in start/stop traffic > on the highway in 80 degree temp, the temp needle rose and eventually > the red light came on. I pulled over, and saw the reservoir coolant > level way low. > Added coolant. Made it home another 15 miles no problem. Next morning > I check the reservoir, almost empty again. > > I am in southwestern Ohio, but returning home to Maine on April 14th, > with two cats who, shall we say, dislike travel. So...time is of the > essence, but so is a worry-free trip. > > I took it to the one recommended mechanic in town, who used to own an > '87 Syncro. He seemed less than excited about working on it, and went > on about how difficult they are to work on and that's why he sold his > blah blah blah but yeah go ahead and bring it in I'll take a look. > > My problem is...I am not at all mechanically minded, not do I know how > much this should cost. > > I don't know how to find another mechanic, and this place has a "good > reputation but also a reputation for being expensive". > > Any thoughts on this would be most welcome and appreciated! Some have > suggested bubble of air in the system. I have no idea how much this > repair should cost. > > Karen > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.