Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 18:08:38 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: removing input shaft seal
In-Reply-To: <CA+n284NyaEUTvBGE199DXX=8easCANebHQ_U-Uaas5UCD9sLXg@mail.gmail.com>
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I really , *really* MUST advise against RTV silicone as a sealant !
I have seen lots of stringy bits of that where it's been used in engines.
here is my 'silicone sealant' thinking..
one ...gray silicone....not very good.
RTV ..forget it.
the really good silicone sealants are black.
I use two ..
one is from Toyota ..it's for putting water pumps and oil pans onto
engines with no gasket or o-ring.
It works perfectly.
costs about $ 18 in a standard size tube.
Has never let me down for coolant sealing or oil sealing.
They make a version for ATF also . ( like auto trans pan sealing )
the other one is The Right Stuff.
buy it in the grease gun tube style, not the aerosol.
That also works just perfectly and has never let me down at all.
they claim you can fill the unit with oil and drive with one hour
sealing time I think.
though I never do that anyway.
yes..check every little part of the bell housing.
check that the cross shaft pivots smoothly ...spray lube it with a
quality synthetic lube until it does.
that the oil slinger is there and not loose.
and lube everything that moves or pivots.
I use 'black slimy' moly-graph grease for that..
where the TOB touches and pivots on the cross shaft..
and especially inside the TOB ..fill those grooves with grease..
and grease the Guide Tube.
( I have seen so many clutches put together bone dry it's just silly ) .
naturally , pay attention to the Pilot Brg.
there must be a felt dust seal there..
often ...I see this all the time too ( ! ) the little metal ring that
retains the felt seal is missing from the flywheel
( removed and lost by machine shops resurfacing the flywheel I suspect ) ..
and a pilot brg with no dust seal is shot in about 2 years.
it's all in the detail of workmanship ..
it's not even in the 'parts' per se...it's the Workmanship...... where
good results get produced.
I am so tempted to post a rant about all the bad work I see ..
it's just insane ..just stupid stuff on vanagons constantly....that
people paid other people to do ..
and those people did not do good or complete work ..not even close.
I do see things that impress me now and then...
I also say 'yes, we install vendor parts,. and we modify and repair them
as necessary to make them work right. "
And that is no joke.
there was a question asked about a shop recently. like two weeks ago.
I didn't comment ...
I just talk about what I see and don't name shops and vendors ..
what really gets me about that particular shop and work of theirs is
that they mounted a muffler just inches below an intercooler...showing
to me, that they are not even thinking very much.
never mind dozens of other missed and dumb things on that job.
heck ..people get charged for parts sometimes that did not even make it
onto their vans !
And a well known member of our community chimed in in the positive
for that shop when asked in a group posting ...and my list of things
done poorly on a van from that shop runs to about 35 items.
( perhaps I should send that list to the person making the positive
recommendation ..
I don't want to see anyone's business ruined...not at all..
I just want to see good and complete and correct work done on vangons
for consumers. )
I just want to see people get what they pay for !
in my experience, it takes about 3 times as long to do something really,
really right on these 20 + year old vans, compared to the common 'slam
dunk' car work done on them.
I mean ....replace 3 of the 4 rusty syncro tank straps ..and not even
tell the customer 'we didn't get to the 4th one'.
( when to do that requires having engine and trans out again ) ?
or do a 14,000 dollar engine conversion and not even tell the customer
one of his syncro tank straps, which the shop worked inches from for
many hours, is about to fall apart ??
Come on !
Somebody is not really trying to do good work. I see it constantly, sad
to say.
just want to see people get what they pay for.
One of my many sayings is ..
'People don't really mind if it's expensive, they just want to get what
they paid for."
you know who.
SDF
On 5/13/2012 10:13 AM, pickle vanagon wrote:
> Ok guys thanks for the advice.
>
> Ill remove the bell housing and use RTV.
>
> Other than the oil slinger, is there anything else easy I should check
> behind the bell housing?
> Thanks again!
> Wes
> On May 13, 2012 11:13 AM, "Daryl Christensen"<daryl@aatransaxle.com> wrote:
>
>> Don't worry about the gasket..We haven't used them for years and always
>> use
>> RTV instead. Just pull it off if that's your preference and do it the easy
>> way. Also you can check to see if the little slinger is still solidly in
>> place as a loose one will cause leaks.
>> T o repl the seal with the bell hsg on, you will need a seal puller to pry
>> it out and then a longish tube that will go over the length of the input
>> shaft to tap (hammer) it back in.
>> Any time you have to put in a seal and cant see the rear side after its
>> installed, you should put some grease in the back cavity where the little
>> spring is at to keep it from popping out from the force of the hammering.
>>
>> Daryl of AA Transaxle
>> 425-788-4070
>> "On the cutting edge of Old technology"
>> 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk
>> 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>> pickle vanagon
>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:25 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: removing input shaft seal
>>
>> How hard is it to remove the input shaft seal on the transmission without
>> removing the bell housing?
>>
>> I realize the bell housing is easy to remove but I don't have a gasket for
>> it and can't really afford to wait for one to come in the mail...
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips!
>> Wes
>>
>>
>>
