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Date:         Mon, 14 May 2012 19:34:02 -0400
Reply-To:     pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: removing input shaft seal
In-Reply-To:  <007c01cd31e4$cfba4cd0$6f2ee670$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

I didn't get these most recent emails until after I put it back together. I didn't sand down the mating surfaces but I did clean it very carefully with brake cleaner. I think I did a reasonable job applying the sealant as I had a very thin and consistent bead squeezed out all around when I tightened the parts together.

With the oil slinger my housing was widened out enough that I had trouble getting a good press fit even peening like that guy in thesamba thread does, *and* using a brand new oil slinger (courtesy of Ken at Vanagain). This trick to expand out the disc part sounds like it might have helped though.

What I did was sand the mating surfaces of the slinger and the housing with coarse sand paper and used a considerable amount of JB Weld, and then hammered it in and sat it on a hot radiator for a few hours to harden it enough to feel comfortable reassembling. I'm not filling the transmission until tomorrow morning so it will have fully hardened by then.

I also rounded out the fork arms carefully (erring on the side of under-doing it, since I don't currently have any clutch chatter.)

Thanks so much for the help guys! Engine goes back up tomorrow.

On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Daryl Christensen <daryl@aatransaxle.com>wrote:

> 3 things…**** > > 1. Grey or Black or whatever color..RTV has worked fine for us (and for VW > for that matter) for 20+ years as a primary sealant Scott…Transmissions > don’t get so hot and don’t create pressure like an engine does. RTV seals, > gives and fills little divots on these 20 + yr old creatures and gaskets > eventually seep. We flat file the surfaces as well after cleaning.**** > > ** ** > > 2. Take the hat shaped slinger and turn it so the “brim” of it is pointing > up and is supported so the rest is hanging down in a vise. Then we hammer > it to expand the brim (not the rest of it) so it has a tighter fit in the > bell housing. Hope that makes sense..Then use the JB and pound it into the > housing. I figure the JB will harden and help keep the slinger in place > with the new seal pushing down on it while its drying.**** > > ** ** > > 3. Even out the forks on the crosshaft as long as the difference is > slight. We round them off and even them up on most every one as they do get > worn uneven most times. And never use a gold colored crosshaft..They are > very soft and junk.**** > > ** ** > > Daryl of AA Transaxle**** > > 425-788-4070**** > > "On the cutting edge of Old technology"**** > > 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk**** > > 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie**** > > ** ** > > *From:* pickle vanagon [mailto:greenvanagon@gmail.com] > *Sent:* Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:31 PM > *To:* Daryl Christensen > *Cc:* vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > > *Subject:* Re: removing input shaft seal**** > > ** ** > > When I took the bell housing off today I found the oil slinger was > completely loose. I guess it's good I took it off! > > My plan is to fix it in the way suggested here: > http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=342440 > > I will try to look back at the pinion teeth and see what I can see. > > I looked carefully at the clutch fork for the uneven wear that sometimes > occurs. I can see that the wear is a little bit uneven, but just a > little. How much unevenness should I tolerate? Is sanding down the less > worn one to match a reasonable alternative to replacing the fork? > > Just one more question... should I do anything to the mating surfaces of > the bell housing/transmission other than clean them? I.e., is some very > light sanding a good idea? > > Thanks again!! > Wes > > > **** > > On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 2:12 PM, Daryl Christensen <daryl@aatransaxle.com> > wrote:**** > > If you are brave..look closely at the pinion teeth way back inside and see > how its wear pattern looks...Nice and shiny is what you wanna see.**** > > > Daryl of AA Transaxle > 425-788-4070 > "On the cutting edge of Old technology" > 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk > 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > pickle vanagon**** > > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 10:13 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: removing input shaft seal > > Ok guys thanks for the advice. > > Ill remove the bell housing and use RTV. > > Other than the oil slinger, is there anything else easy I should check > behind the bell housing? > Thanks again! > Wes > On May 13, 2012 11:13 AM, "Daryl Christensen" <daryl@aatransaxle.com> > wrote: > > > Don't worry about the gasket..We haven't used them for years and > > always use RTV instead. Just pull it off if that's your preference and > > do it the easy way. Also you can check to see if the little slinger is > > still solidly in place as a loose one will cause leaks. > > T o repl the seal with the bell hsg on, you will need a seal puller to > > pry it out and then a longish tube that will go over the length of the > > input shaft to tap (hammer) it back in. > > Any time you have to put in a seal and cant see the rear side after > > its installed, you should put some grease in the back cavity where the > > little spring is at to keep it from popping out from the force of the > hammering. > > > > Daryl of AA Transaxle > > 425-788-4070 > > "On the cutting edge of Old technology" > > 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk > > 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On > > Behalf Of pickle vanagon > > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:25 AM > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: removing input shaft seal > > > > How hard is it to remove the input shaft seal on the transmission > > without removing the bell housing? > > > > I realize the bell housing is easy to remove but I don't have a gasket > > for it and can't really afford to wait for one to come in the mail... > > > > > > Thanks for any tips! > > Wes > > > > > > > > **** > > ** ** >


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