Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 13:17:57 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: watch out ..bit of a rant - about coolant etc.
In-Reply-To: <20120522100203.J66C0.984298.imail@eastrmwml214>
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Hi Dave,.
thanks for sharing ...
glad to hear their opinion. I don't use much of course..
like 1 % of the entire capacity of the system.
I don't think it's going to hurt.
Let's say this ..
I never do treat new cars with my method. I never even touch newish cars.
I work on the poor old rusted and corroded to death things ..
I am quite sure it's not going to hurt old cars.
Also ..the world of dealerships and new cars ....versus 20 + year old cars..
those worlds are as different as water and fire.
Unrelated actually.
well........I can not say there are really right about the 50/50 mixture
only ..
yes, that is a 'safe' mixture , especially for a new car.
And ...get a bottle of water wetter and read what it says on the bottle.
They quote a dyno test with various mixtures...and what temp is produced.
they have ..
50/50 ........it's something like 221 degrees F
then they have 50/50 with water wetter ......that runs at 218 or
something ..a little less.
then they have plain water..
and plain water with water wetter.
the last one runs the coolest and they very clearly state that a weaker
mixture ...say 45 % a-frz and 55 % water...
runs cooler than 50/50.
so ..
in summer, where we are not worried about it being below freezing at all...
it's fine to run a mixture a little weaker than 50/50 for better cooling .
and I add water wetter to that, and run an 80 C thermostat.
Despite what the people at car dealers say ..
a really, really sharp service or parts person at a car dealership is
very rare thing.
HAVE YOU NOT NOTICED THE FOLLOWING AFFECT YOUR WHOLE LIFE ???
I SURE HAVE !!
Perfect example...my first car ...
the starter was out of it for some reason and I asked a shop if I could
run it without a starter..
they said 'no'.
and either they are just FLAT STUPID or they were lying to me ..
because ...all you have to do is bolt the main battery cable and the
heavy wire there on the starter solenoid post together ..and you have
full juice everywhere.
Our vanagons are exactly like this ..
say you have the starter out and need to power something up ..say close
power windows ..
if you just connect that heavy wire at the starter solenoid post and the
batt. cable..
you have proper power distribution .
I could list 500 + cases of 'not really the truth ' ..
Many people are stupid, hate to say ..or they think you are ..
so ..this simple answer is 'only this way' ..
and sure ...that's what Honda or whomever says..
but in the REAL ACTUAL WORLD ...something else is really more truthful ...
If I ever do find out any harm from my method I'll let you know;
I have been fighting my whole life with people that are not that smart.
Perfect Example.........had a guy in a FLAPS one time tell me there was
no way to have a brass T fitting so I could run an oil pressure gauge
and a oil pressure warning light switch at the same time.. He kept
saying :
..'you can't do that ..one is mechanical , one is electrical' ..
seriously .. Was he just that dumb ? ..It appears so.
Can you imagine how aggravating it was having that 'person' between me
and their drawers of brass fitting where I knew damn well they had what
I needed ??? !
I do way, way better the vast majority of the time listening to my own
smarts ..
I didn't even originate the idea of machinist's water soluble oil , just
a bit btw, not a gallon for gosh sakes. ...in cooling systems..read it
somewhere or something.
I read about 25 hours a week every week of my life btw ...in dozens of
subjects.
I'll stop ..
you ought to see the seriously SCREWED UP subaru conversion I am working
on right now ..
it is IMPOSSIBILITY SLOPPILY done ...
Seriously ..
you would not believe the huge amount of just awful dumb thoughtless
lazy car work I see.
no I have not done a controlled experiement..
I can tell you ...I get no corrosion in any of my cooling systems ..
my brakes hardly where..
Vanagons rarely ever need new spark plugs ..
btw ..
I do have one car ..my turbo volvo ....this engine and a previous one
..bad habit of a little engine oil getting into the coolant..
and it softens the hoses badly .
that is ENGINE OIL..
perhaps people don't know what WATER SOLUBLE oil is.
hey ..you better not try it though ..
If you had seen the severe corrosion I have seen in countless cooling
systems ..
you'd know corrosion is a serious problem, and my general feeling is
that just changing out a 50/50 mixture every two years in a vanagon is
adequate corrosion protection and prevention really. I also don't think
it's necessary to use Blue or VW coolant either. I do this full time
340 days a year , and been workin' on cars almost 50 years. A smart
competent person learns and figures out what works with that much
experience.
There are so many things I have done ( not talking cars or fixin' 'em )
...someone would say 'you can't ' when I know I can ..and I just go
ahead and do what I know I can do.
A lot of people just like to nix and kabosh other people's wild
dreams, plans and visions.
nice to see your note.
but you darsn't try my method, I suggest.
lol, Scott
On 5/22/2012 7:02 AM, Dave Mcneely wrote:
> ---- Scott Daniel - Turbovans<scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> wrote:
>> usually water pumps are not lubed externally.
>> If I was going to do that I would use a high quality synthetic spray lube.
>>
>> I run machinist's cutting oil in my cooling systems...about a cup or so ..
>> a water soluble oil that is a great rust inhibitor and w. pump lube ..
>> I've done this to hundreds if not thousands of cars going back 25 yrs.
>>
>> it works.
> Scott, you have been saying this on here forever. I have asked several dealerships and radiator shops about this, because of your advocacy. The dealerships have stated that if they knew someone did that on a vehicle under warranty, the warranty would likely not be honored. All, dealerships and radiator shops alike have stated that the water pump is internally lubricated and that any oil in the coolant would not have any effect on lubrication. they all stated that the only materials that should be in the coolant system are coolant mixed 50:50 with water.
>
> Have you any data concerning this, or is it just a belief? Have water pumps with and without the treatment been compared in a controlled experiment?
>
> Thanks, mcneely
>
