Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 09:06:58 -0400
Reply-To: Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod ends and Rear trailing arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <4FC4F188.3010705@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Ed, I had to do this on a Syncro Westy not too long ago where we
replaced all of the front and rear lower control arm bushings. What I
have found is that if the van is from the east coast and hasn't been
garaged, these bolts are going to be seized into the sleeve in the
center of the bushing. So even if you get the nut to come off (I did on
all of the bolts I worked on) you will still have to cut the sleeve and
the bolts on both ends. This really stinks but what I have learned is
that it helps to use an air grinder with a large enough grinding wheel
to at least cut halfway into the bolt. You have to be careful when
cutting, as you don't want to cut into the mounts or the body of the
van. If you can grind halfway through the bolt then you can either flip
the arm around a bit and grind the other side or use a sawzall to cut
the rest of the way through. The outer sleeve in the bushing is the
hardest part so once you get through that the bolt is a bit easier to
cut/grind.
Once you get all of these cut loose pressing them out I used this press
from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html
They press out pretty easy with this kit and an air gun.
To install new ones you are going to want to lube them with vasoline,
then use a compression tool to squeeze the new bushing to allow you to
press it into the arm. We actually used a no hub cast iron pipe coupler
that you can buy at Home Depot for around $8. Here is a link to that:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100372291/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cast+iron+pipe+coupling&storeId=10051
Using that and the ball joint press kit and you should be good to go.
Also you are going to want to get all new hardware for the front and
rear suspension. I am talking about the bolts and nuts that go through
the bushings. You are going to wreck them so buying new ones up front
saves time later. Nothing I hate worse than getting everything ready to
go back together, only to find that I need some bolts, nuts, etc.
Hope this helps you out. If you need anything (parts), please let me know.
--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
Phone: 856-327-4936
Fax: 856-327-2242
On 5/29/2012 11:55 AM, email99 wrote:
> It's time for some suspension maintenance.
>
> First a question:
>
> I recently replaced my steering rack (with tie rods) and tie rod ends
> and I found, after alignment, the engagement of the tie rod into the tie
> rod ends was not as deep as I would have liked. It seems the length of
> the female threaded housing of the tie rod end is not as long as I
> remembered when I have replaced the rod end in the past. Have the
> replacement parts changed over the years? Are there brands that are
> longer than others? Please note that I am not talking about the tapered
> stud that attaches to the spindle arm.
>
> Now a request for some advice:
>
> Also, the bolts attaching the rear trailing arm bushings are frozen in
> the bushings and even after considerable abuse, they refuse to budge.
> Is there a portable hydraulic press that maybe a frame alignment shop
> might have that could press these out? If not, I guess I will have to
> hack saw the bolts and inner metal sleeve to remove the trailing arm and
> then drill out the rubber bushing to remove the rest of the bushing.
> Does anyone who has done this have any suggestions?
>
> I'm seeking advice from anyone who has done this in the past.
>
> Please pmail me if you like.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed
>
