Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 23:57:53 -0400
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Big Brakes for 14'' rims? WAS: Re: front brakes
In-Reply-To: <4FCD4A90.1070401@gmail.com>
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At 07:53 PM 6/4/2012, Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
>Is Bentley sufficient for R&Ring the front rotors and pads on an '84?
You might find the Haynes handy as a cross-reference. Bus Depot is
the sole US source I believe. Haynes doesn't expect you to have all
the factory tools.
A wooden mallet or dead-blow hammer used gently is probably good for
working the bearing caps off. Maybe rubber mallet as well. Regular
ball-peen will mess up the paint.
The Girling and ATE calipers I believe use the same pads but they
assemble slightly differently. Bentley describes the differences.
You'll need either to install new bearings into the new rotor/hub or
remove the existing ones and move them over. New ones definitely
less messy, and the bearing kit should come with the adjusting
nut. Keep the bearings wrapped up (the roller cage especially) until
the last minute - they'll come wrapped in corrosion-preventing paper
which also keeps them immaculate. These are separate races and
carrier so you probably won't be tempted, but never spin ball/roller
bearings with air when cleaning or otherwise - you can overspeed and
wreck them.
You'll need new grease seals for the inner bearings which will come
with the bearing kits.
The seats are hard and brittle. The ones going into the hub are a
press/drive fit. They must be installed straight in until they
bottom out. A driving tool like this
http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER41630_0054344379
made of aluminum will let you drive them in with a three or four
pound hammer (reasonably gently, the big hammer is for impedance
matching, not because you need massive force) while taking great care
that they start straight. When they bottom you'll know it.
The same tool (use an oversized one, reversed) helps install the
grease seal, although that can also be done with a piece of wood and
a mallet. Also needs to go in straight but it's more forgiving. You
can improvise a driver for the bearing seats as well, but it should
be reasonably soft (mild steel should be ok) and a good fit so it
doesn't chip the edge of the seat. Diameter has to be small enough
to fit into the bore but not much smaller because it has to rest
firmly all around the edge of the bearing seat.
If you feel nervous about this any shop can do it in seconds, leaving
you to pack the grease seals and roller cages with grease and fit it
all up to the spindle, on which you've placed the new inner race for
the inner bearing. All the greasing must be *clean*. Grit in grease
is otherwise known as grinding paste.
I think Bentley's pretty clear about the tightness adjustment (can't
look now) but be sure you're clear about one point: they want you to
(just?) be able to shift the washer around (you'll see) using the tip
of a screwdriver held in your hand *without extra leverage from
prying against something else.*
Silicone adhesive caulk (or Elmer's Stix-all) will work better than
silicone gasket-forming compounds for sealing up the speedometer
cable end on the driver's side.
Yrs,
d
