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Date:         Fri, 1 Jun 2012 11:49:22 -0700
Reply-To:     neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Dometic Frig Will not stay cold with DC current
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
In-Reply-To:  <4fc8fba1.c4d6e00a.6caa.ffff93d3@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

If the owner needs to dive in that far in, I have read that one can add a *thin* brass shim (on same side as screw) between the bottom of a given heater element and the tube it slides into. This may aid in providing more contact between the element and the tube which is up against the chemical containing pipe. Just tossing the idea out there. Regardless.....

As per Davids comment, if the brass screw is missing, the element won't be as effective in doing the job. A well intended PO could easily loose this screw and not give it a second thought.

Image shows my old 182A with "all in one" elements. 182B has AC and DC elements each in its' own separate tube:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-puS0D4JmxV0/Sas2SIS_IBI/AAAAAAAADrk/Bxi4sb7GaoM/s720/DometicExhaustChemicalTubes.jpg

Neil.

On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 10:27 AM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> Jon, the AC and DC heaters are each rated 85 watts; >

> It's possible for there to be problems with the heater itself, but > much less likely. One thing to check, though, would be that it's > properly inserted and secured in its tube attached to the boiler. > > Yours, > David >

-- Neil n

65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp

'88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.

'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines


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