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Date:         Fri, 1 Jun 2012 18:47:09 -0500
Reply-To:     JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: HF Specials
Comments: To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAHTkEu+1bAmjpRGgqPUof1Psc4DTs2poTiBHJFFG4f6DRTafDA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I understand about the precision thing. When working in Aviation I learned about the significance of proper torque. Definitely do not want the wrong torque on the bolts holding and engine on the wing or the wing to the airplane. BUT - I also learned to never ever trust a torque wrench. In the shop environment, everytime we had a torque job - that torque wrench got calibrated just before hand. We had a certified torque meter in the shop against which the wrenches were checked. I would never trust just "any" torque wrench just out of the box, or one that has been banging around in the tool box for who knows how long between calibrations - if it has ever been calibrated.

John

On 6/1/2012 9:34 AM, Don Hanson wrote: > I wouldn't even think of using a Harbor Freight torque wrench on any of > my bikes. At the very fine (and critical) settings that are required and > the fragile nature of bike frames and components, a low-cost, possibly > wrongly calibrated, torque wrench can cost you big!. It doesn't take much > of an error to ruin a bike frame that might be worth $5000. Can you > imagine the laugh you'd get if you went back to HF and said..."Hey, you > sold me a faulty torque wrench for $12 and I used it on my carbon bike > frame. It didn't 'click' and it broke the bottom bracket (or the brake > bridge) -the frame is now garbage.......You owe me a new frame.....That'll > be $4800 you owe me for my down-scale carbon frame" > I could buy two of my very adequate inline VW 5sp vans for what I paid > for my race bike, not counting the carbon wheels. And mine is not > expensive, compared to some... There are bicycle torque requirements in the > 5 nm range and 8 nm will cause catastrophic failure. Descending a > mountain pass at 50mph on a bicycle with carbon handlebars that have been > torqued with a HF wrench? When they may be over-torqued and ready to snap > off, causing a high speed face-plant(at the very least)? > > Not worth saving a few bucks on the wrench... > > I do have one that I use on my Vanagon for wheel lugs and non-critical > precision torque jobs. The locking function, the extra knurled knob on > the handle that is supposed to keep the setting locked in...that broke the > first week I got the thing, and the little retainer ball fell out of the > socket square drive so the sockets just drop off...pretty much junk, in my > experience....Good price though.. > Don Hanson > > On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 5:30 AM, Edward Maglott<emaglott3@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Update: I just got an email coupon for your choice 1/4, 1/2, 3/8 >> wrench for $12.99. >> >> >> >> Seems like if you wait long enough the torque wrenches are sometimes >> $9.99. I got the in/lb 1/4" drive one for the odd time I might need >> that for bicycle work. >> >> I did the upper and lower ball joints on my '86 using the press type >> thing I borrowed from my flaps for free. no problems. >> >> Edward >> >> >> > . >


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