Date:         Mon, 6 Aug 2012 17:26:12 -0400
Reply-To:     Kim Brennan <kimbrennan@MAC.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Kim Brennan <kimbrennan@MAC.COM>
Subject:      Re: Refrigerator gasket and flame goes out remedies
Comments: To: Leonard Sitongia <sitongia@ONEBEAM.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <op.wikqncm2flv9uo@felix.onebeam>
Content-type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII

Thermocouple wire doesn't have insulation on it. It's a plain copper wire that goes up to the valve on the top of the fridge.

The SPARKER (ignition source) does have insulation. If that is frayed, you can cause it to spark to your cabinet and ignite the insulation. Not good (I know because this happened to me). I replaced my sparker.

The thermocouple controls the flow of gas to the combustion chamber. You should only need to hold the button in for a few moments (a minute or two at the max), so as to start a draft (aka hot air going out the exhaust, will pull fresh air in to the combustion chamber.) If you do not have good ventilation the flame will not stay lit.

When I serviced my fridge a few years ago, I adjusted the gap on the sparker, made sure that the fuel (propane) orifice wasn't blocked, cleaned out the ash. In the end I replaced the sparker, and it all worked fine. Low battery voltage will prevent the sparker from correctly firing, an issue I had, but as long as your propane is at the correct pressure (and that you have propane) it's a fairly simple system. I usually would check the propane at the stove. If I had flow enough there to maintain a flame, I was reasonably confident that the fridge would stay lit too.


On Aug 5, 2012, at 11:29 AM, Leonard Sitongia wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have the Dometic 182 refrigerator out of my Westy and I'm trying to
> address the problem in that it won't stay lit. Spark is okay. Ignites.
> After minutes, the flame goes out.
>
> There was a bug in the burn box, but it was just a loose bug, not
> plugging any holes.
>
> The thermocouple wire insulation is frayed at the point where it makes a
> bend to the burn box. Looks like the wire is intact. Maybe I should
> replace it. How can I test it on a bench? Can I power the fridge on 110v
> and use water to test it or does that risk damaging the thermocouple
> sensor, especially since there is fraying.