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Date:         Fri, 3 Aug 2012 01:09:10 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Caliper Bleeder Screw: RF Typically Seize More Often?
Comments: To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAB2RwfgCq2ufZ3idmTGynex4sHrrsQn3jXd=rW2d9ejpdCVNyg@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Those bleeders can really get rusted in there. A good reason to regularly bleed the brakes to change the fluid and replacing the bleeders occasionally also helps. Propane torches are worthless at getting parts like this loose. The trick is Oxy-acetylene. Small hot flame. You want to heat the area near the screw fast enough to get just the casting to expand near the screw without heating long enough for the heat to transfer to the seals. As for the shop not reporting the frozen bleeder maybe they were afraid to ask for more $$$ but maybe they lost a caliper sale.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of neil n Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 6:56 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Caliper Bleeder Screw: RF Typically Seize More Often?

Hi all.

Took my '88 Westy to a shop. Shortly after work done, felt a short noticeable shudder braking at highway speeds. In checking the shops work. (wheel fasteners, etc.), noticed the RF bleeder was untouched. It won't turn, the other 3 do. Shop had flushed the brakes. Asked the shop about this screw, they said they bled that wheel at a hose union (but I can't see any wrench marks at any of those unions...... That's another story)

Before taking van to shop, I sprayed penetrating fluid on bleeder screws well in advance. Maybe I missed spraying the RF bleeder but.....

Is the RF bleeder any more prone to seizing than the LF bleeder? Strange question but I'm trying to determine if it's worth tackling this part or just wait until I do both calipers, hoses etc.

I saw Alistairs page, and a few comments (thanks Scott) on getting a stuck bleeder loose.

What I've done:

- applied penetrating fluid - applied heat to caliper body (butane torch, nothing too hot) - tapped on the end of the bleeder with a small hammer - picked rust/dirt away from threads at caliper body

I plan on wrapping a small rag around the bleeder and soaking it with penetrating fluid to keep it all "wet".

Any other tips to loosening the bleeder are welcome!

Neil.

-- Neil n

65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp

'88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.

'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engine s


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