Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 12:02:58 -0400
Reply-To: Roger Whittaker <rogerwhitt1@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Roger Whittaker <rogerwhitt1@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Two fuel line replacement questions
In-Reply-To: <501cdbcb.8759320a.6dc3.1c9e@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
dear good to the last drop (assuming you know Mawell House is a brand of
coffee in Canada)
i bought the go westy kit ...
then i went to the local vw /foreign parts shops and bought some extra fuel
line .. . and yes they sell OEM SPEC if you ask ...
the extra i used to redo all the lines from the fuel tank back to the
engine bay.. saving the gowesty stuff for all the in the engine bay R & R
... i also bought 5/8 heater hose which i utilized as shielding ... and yes
it was a little tight to push the fuel line through in a couple of
instances but it worked /works great ...
i am a slow and single task orientated sort of fellow and the entire R & R
took me 5+ hours including two extra trips to fetch more of the side crimp
clamps and etc ... snacks - coffee run and a few other side show
distractions ...
the measure twice -- then measure again -- cut once rule has never meant
more than it does in this instance ... ecpecially for a mechanic who is
parsing the job over price per foot rather than should i let my van burn at
the side of the road or not ...
more importantly clamp nothing ... until you have the pieces in place and
are satisfied with the task as completed ( i did each length of line as if
it were a complete job all in itself and did nt even begin to apply my
"skills" in the engine bay until i had reached the point of running the
line from the fuel manifold -- ... there i had to mix a little of down
under with up above as i had to create a hose fish to snake the line
through the OEM track transitioning from the under carriage to the firewall
(which i bypassed ) but i did error there ... even though i got rid of the
plastic thingy-- i replaced it with a metal connector ( bad roger no
treat) and uses a zip tie to hold the line from sagging as it passed under
the firewall ... what i should have done was run a single piece right to
the fuel manifold and then cut ... anyway ...
also this is a good time to replace your fuel filter which should be
located under the vehicle and bolted to the undercarriage ...
i used a pair of hemostats to close off the fuel line from the gas tank til
i was ready to hook up the new fuel line ... i had a dish on the ground and
some absorbent pads for fuel spills (like giant diapers) less than a 1/4
cup spilled while i swapped out the new for the old ...
other words of caution ...
1. no smoking while the project is underway and if you do have to smoke
make sure your clothes do not have any fuel on them before you light up ...
2. if you can wear light mechanics gloves or surgical gloves to protect
your hands from cuts from the Olfa knife and also other general hand
injuries ...
3. wear safety glasses with side shields to keep bits from falling in your
eyes while you are under the van ...
regards
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 3:55 AM, Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@cfu.net>wrote:
> Fortunately for me, my fuel lineburst in the driveway moving the van
> from the driveway to the gap inbetween the shop and
> garage. Investigated the problem and saw no obisous tear in the
> lines. Definitely cracking on the outside on several of them though.
>
> Since I don't remember who I bought the last replacement kit from,
> I'd like to buy some hose that will last a bit longer this time
> around for my 90 GL with2.1L motor. I didn't add any "shielding"
> like the factory did, so that may have been part of the problem, but
> my questions are as follows:
>
> 1. There is a lot of hype over the 30R9 class of fuel hose that
> Goodyear and Gates offer, but it comes in SAE sizes. Go westy offers
> an "upgrade" to higher quality hose, but it is a substantial increase
> in price. I had the autoparts local guy use his caliper to measure
> the inside diameter of some US made 5/16" hose and it came out as
> 7.3mm. So question number one is whether the diff between the 5/16"
> and the 7mm German hose is an issue considering I'm using the rolled
> edge hose clamps to tighten things up with??
>
> 2. Vanagain's website sells the 7mm high pressure fuel hose for
> $5/ft. but doesn't specify whether it's 30R9 spec. or not. I've yet
> to research as to whether the Gates/Goodyear/Dayco hoses are for high
> pressure applications yet, so I'm asking the list if the 30R9 spec is
> a desirable thing? Bus DEpot doesn't specify the 30R9 spec either,
> but their fuel line is higher priced per foot than Vanagain's. Just
> trying to compare apples to apples here..
>
> I realize that most any reinforced high pressure hose will be an
> improvement over what I have now, but would like to make an informed
> purchase this time around. BTW, the leak was under the 1-2 manifold
> and after cutting out the section of bad hose, it was not obvious
> where the leak was. I plugged one end of the hose with an 8mm bolt
> and applied air pressure from the other end. I got a "draft"
> alright, but still couldn't see the crack in the hose. Shot more air
> in there and this time the tiniest of white threads from the
> reinforcement surfaced where the air is coming out.
>
> Yes folks, I'm a believer on the replace your fuel lines bandwagon,
> but one site recommended that they be replaced every 3 years., Even
> at $5 a foot, that's an expensive maintenance item. I'd like some
> hose that will last longer than that, kinda like the factory hose did
> and the 30R9 is spozed to hold up to the new fuel combinations better
> than the old stuff.
>
> Thanks
>
--
roger w
From Proverbs:
Under three things the earth trembles, under four it cannot bear up: a
servant who becomes king ...
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