Date:         Sun, 12 Aug 2012 14:34:38 -0500
Reply-To:     mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject:      trip report  quite long
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Start:  20 July Edmond, Oklahoma
Farthest point from Edmond, Burlington, Washington
Finish:  11 August Edmond, Oklahoma
Total miles: 5,885

Itinererary with notations:

Edmond to Clayton, NM, overnight at Clayton State Park, numerous antelope.  Delightful high plains broken country.   Bizarrely, refrigerator failed to start on propane for the first time ever.  Paid for electric hookup at state park.  Next day, refrigerator started on propane fine, and did so unfailingly for the duration of the trip.  Comments or suggestions?  I had just refilled with propane, and had not used either stove or refrigerator after.  At first, one stove burner was weak, too, but then worked properly.

Clayton, NM via Raton Pass and Denver to Douglas, Wyoming, overnight at Campbell Creek Campground, Medicine Bow National Forest.  Alone in the 5 site campground (as on previous trips to N.F. campgrounds in this vicinity).  Denver and vicinity traffic horrible, actually from Colorado Springs to beyond Fort Collins.  Vow never to drive through Denver again (same vow taken on previous occasions, it is the shortest route to destination).  Lots of elk on drive in to CG, beautiful creek at CG.  Black bear ambled through campground in early morning, did not disturb anything.

Campbell Creek CG to Big Timber, Montana.  Camped in Forest Service Halfmoon CG in Crazy Mountains.  Very rough road in from highway, beautiful wooded valley, lots of wildflowers, nice waterfall on creek.  One of several "Grasshopper Glaciers" in Montana is in these mountains, with Great Plains Locusts embedded in ice.  This species is now believed extinct, but plagued farmers horribly during settlement of the plains, as far east as eastern Kansas.  Carcasses litter several glaciers, believed to be due to miles wide swarms caught in storms resulting in bodies deposited on glacier surfaces and then incorporated into ice.

Crazy Mountains to Spokane, WA.  Delightful several day visit with daughter, son-in-law, grandchildren Elliot, almost 4 years old, and Siduri 2 months old.  Wonderful time, including camping and hiking at Spokane River State Park (So her parents could retreat to home easily because of Siduri's  current bout of feeding difficulties if needed -- it was not, she did fine).  Grandson Elliot was able to turn hand crank for homemade ice cream even as ice cream neared completion, and bragged about how strong he was.

Spokane to Twisp, Washington in Methow River Valley via Grand Coulee.  Bought superb breads from the Cinnamon Twisp Bakery and Cafe on Twisp's sort of primitively touristy main business street. Methow River Valley is delightful.  Overnight in Poplar Flat CG on Twisp River.  Another of the tiny CG we favor, again alone in the CG.  Twisp River drains from Sawtooth Ridge, a glaciated range in the North Cascades.   Bear warnings led us to consider sleeping with the poptop down.  The relatively low elevation and the fact that grizzlies are generally present only in the more remote sections of the North Cascades caused us to leave it up, however.

Twisp, Washington, to Marblemount, Washington, via Ross Lake National Recreation Area.  This recreation area is a unit of North Cascades National Park, separately designated because of the series of Seattle Light dams and reservoirs that obliterated the upper Skaggit River.  Lots of traffic through here, beautiful glaciated peaks and valleys, but the reservoirs spoil it, and attract the mobs from Seattle.  

Mineral Park CG on Cascade River adjacent to North Cascades National Park.  Several nights in this wonderful location.  The CG is what the NFS calls a "primitive" CG, and is rather small, but nevertheless there were other campers, probably because of the proximity of Seattle and North Cascades National Park.  Being heavily forested, the CG affords privacy despite other visitors.  Cascade River here deserves its name.  Heads at Cascade Pass, 5,984 feet, with deep glaciated valleys SE and NW, snowbound peaks, and small glaciers in the upper drainage.  Ten miles downstream at the campground the elevation is 1100 feet.  Each day, the river level rose and ebbed with snowmelt conditions (early August remember).  Picked enough red and black huckleberries in an hour to make two pies and huckleberry pancakes, which we enjoyed in three states during the next days.

Hiked to the top of Cascade Pass in the National Park.  I am so proud of how Bonnie has recovered from her lengthy debility.  Two years ago she could only walk a few steps before having to rest, after her leg injury and other health problems including precipitous weight loss before we learned of her insulin deficiency.  The hike to the pass is 3.7 miles one way, gaining 2000 feet, and is recommended as a five hour round trip.  We did it in six hours.  Bonnie did not make the last 50 yards because of a steep snow field with a 20 yard crossing, and she was unsure of her balance, but I am so proud of how she marched up the mountain.  Two years of therapy and gym work are paying off!!

We saw young backpackers just starting up the mountain at the parking area as we were descending, 7 p.m.  The first back country camp site is two miles beyond the pass, with another 1000 feet of climb, no camping on the trail.  I assume they made it before dark.

Pikas were common in the rock slides near the pass.  Other wildlife seen included a mountain goat and a black bear that bounded across the trail and up the mountain.  Beautiful wildlflower displays in the mountain meadows.  We did some other hikes in the vicinity.  Of course, years would be required to adequately cover North Cascades National Park, almost all of which is deep wilderness.

One negative comment about Mineral Park CG.  It is run by a NFS vendor, Voodoo Services.  We registered for several days.  On one occasion, upon returning from activities in the National Park, we found all our firewood gone, the campsite raked, and our receipt removed from the post.  The charcoal in the fireplace had even been cleaned away.  We went ahead and stayed anyway.  The next day the young man who serviced the campground showed up while we were still in camp.  I asked him about the wood being gone, and the receipt being gone.  He answered that he had removed the wood and receipt, according to "Corporate Policy" regarding "abandoned" camp sites.  We had a conversation, and eventually he replaced the wood without charge with bundles from the vendor supply that is sold for $6 a bundle, and restored our receipt for the remaining time.  But if someone had occupied the site after he had "evicted" us in our absence, there would have been nothing we could have done about it.

Over the years, I have been very pleased with NFS campgrounds.  But, I have been less than pleased with the recent practice in some NF of leasing CG servicing to a contractor, even the small, "primitive" sites that I prefer.  Why do we need a middleman between the FS and the camper?  Some of the campgrounds now have "hosts" who are simply corporate employees, unlike the volunteer hosts who have always been there for the experience and pleasure of serving.  I have considered doing this myself.  I would never do it as an employee.  But, it does give someone a job.

Marblemount, WA to Nile, WA via U.S. 97 through Yakima.  Beautiful interior Washington country, except for the industrial farming area around Yakima.  Searched for "Hanging Tree CG," highly recommended by a usually reliable friend.  Poor directions, road construction and detours, and differing opinions of locals as to how to find the CG made for a trying late afternoon.  Finally located it, exactly where the Washington DeLorme's showed it to be, though road closures confused the matter.   We had thought it was a typical NF primitive CG.  Turned out to be just a spot that has been traditionally used for camping, no facilities.  Ok, we have camped at lots of such over the years.  Happy to do so again.  And the setting, in Little Rattlesnake Canyon, was beautiful.  However, the CG was occupied by a large group of folks I can only describe as like those in the novel and movie _Deliverance_.  I did inquire as to whether this was Hanging Tree Campground.  All present professed to have no knowledge of any place with that name, and advised us that we'd probably like it better elsewhere, maybe "on up the road."  They were right, and their large collection of snarly dogs and 3 and 4 wheelers made us really sure of it.  We were careful not to offend, especially and even when one young man referred to our camper in some rather insulting language.  We just left.  I didn't know that Washington shared some commonalities with certain parts of Alabama and East Texas that I have visited.

Interestingly one of the locals we had inquired of as to the CG while searching for it had told us that Gary Cooper camped there.  Jokingly, I asked if he was there now.  She didn't seem to think that was funny, and replied that he'd died a few years ago, but that the CG was called "Hanging Tree" after he'd played a part in a a movie by the same name and made in the area.  The CG was supposed to have been one "set" for the movie.

"On up the road" in the gloaming to an RV park for the night.  Principles sometimes have to be compromised.  Bonnie and I split the claimed to be "biggest hamburger in the U.S." at the park restaurant, and didn't eat it all.

Nile, WA to Bend, Oregon, via U.S. 97.  Interesting wayside stop on U.S. 97 not far from Shaniko, OR.  One can see an array of some 12 volcanic peaks in the distance, ranging from Snaggletop and The Three Sisters to the south, to Mount Ranier to the north.  A concrete arc has brass arrows pointing to each peak with the elevation noted.

Bend seems to have specialized in street installations like roundabouts to slow traffic, and to have made it a point not to have road signage that makes finding local highways easy.  We were after the Cascades Lakes Highway.  Eventually found it, but locals we queried all had different ways to get to it.

Overnight at Elks Lake CG.  Very nice place, though also serviced by the aforementioned Voodoo Services, and heavily used. Other CGs in the area seem to better fit our criteria, but night was coming on and a thunderstorm brewing.  In fact, it rained pretty hard for half the night.  But the next morning was beautifully clear, and from some points, we could see the high peaks with snow still on them.  The lake is quite pleasant, and I am sure that Bend residents resort to it it in droves, especially on weekends when Bend temperatures reach near 100 while it is much cooler in the mountains.  We had a really nice though quite cold swim in the morning.

Bend, OR to Banks, ID via U.S. 20 and Idaho 55.  This drive was really pleasant, with lots of wayside stops noting interesting points along the Oregon Trail.  The closer to Idaho we got, the more smoke there was in the air.  The road to our intended camp along the Payette River was closed due to fire, as were numerous campsites in the area, though the host/corporate employee at the tiny, primitive Swinging Bridge C.G. where we did stay claimed that the fire was a small one.  This CG was right on the highway with no access to the river on the other side of the road, unlike our intended site with wonderful, stream side sites.  But we could not get there.   The host said it was quite ok to make a fire in the CG fireplace, but the extremely dry conditions, and the fires already burning suggested to us otherwise.

Banks, ID to Craters of the Moon National Monument via U.S. 20.  Magnificent lava flows, wonderful twisted Limber Pine trees with more Clark's Nutcrackers (a kind of jay) than I've seen before in my whole life.  Several enjoyable and informative hikes through the rocks and up the hills.  Encountered a class of University of Michigan summer field course geology  students who shared with us some of their observations.  Wonderful kids.  The world is NOT going to hell because of modern young people.

On to Palisades CG in a small, beautiful canyon tributary to the Snake River via U.S. 20, with more nice stops on the Oregon Trail.  Another isolated CG with only one other site occupied.  Lunch stop at Fairview, Idaho sort of disconcerting, though.  While we were eating at a table in the little town park, a workman set up giant sprinklers to irrigate the lawn, turned them on, and blasted us with water!  He'd begun working after we sat down for lunch.  He then came over and offered to help us move the table.  We did, and he was a congenial sort, just seemed a bit odd.  Maybe the town does not want strangers using its park?

Then on to Grand Teton National Park.  Of course, amazing as always, though the front country is just too crowded.  And, I've always had an odd sort of bias concerning this park, as a "Rich folks playground."  I guess the history involving the Rockefellers, the proximity of Jackson, and the early occupation of Jackson Hole by wealthy eastern vacationers caused my not quite rational feeling.  Without Rockefeller, we likely would not have this park.

We found our destination, the Grassy Lake Road along the upper Snake River toward Grassy Lake (which is actually outside the park, but we stopped inside).  The road is "4-wheel drive advised," but is not too rough.  A careful driver with a sedan could make it.  We got our private campsite along Glade Creek, in mixed meadow, Douglas Fir, Lodgepole Pine, Spruce habitat.  Two days and nights, just relaxing at CG, cooking good food in dutch oven, birding, washing up with the cold Glade Creek water.  Wow, pouring that cold water over one's naked body at 8k feet altitude is a jolt, even if the air is warm.  We could have heated the water in our solar shower, but what is life without experiences?

Here, we slept with the poptop down, -but  we did cook in the van some.  We figured a grizzly could likely reach the canvas, though they are not good climbers.  Even if the bear could not get in, the experience would likely be quite entertaining.   We asked at the entrance, and were told simply that our van is a "hard sided vehicle," and satisfied food storage requirements and that we could cook and sleep in it.  There were no queries from the park personnel regarding how we would store food.  A large metal bear box was provided at our "back country" camp site.  Near the camp site there were old claw marks on some trees, but not very high, and no other bear sign.  We did see an adolescent black bear near the park entrance.

From Grand Teton we beat a fairly direct route home to Oklahoma, stopping for the night at Livermore, CO and Boyse City, Oklahoma, traveling mostly via U.S. 287, though we took local roads to bypass Denver well to its east and left 287 at Boyce City to travel more directly east toward home on Oklahoma 3.

At Livermore, CO we celebrated our 45th anniversary a day early with a cabin, hot shower, and steak at Robinson's Resort (we don't recommend the place, but the hot water was nice).  The High Line Fire had burned to within 500 yards of the facilities, and the proprietors have not yet recovered, not reopening the swimming pool yet, for example.  The "resort" is mostly used by folks who want to access the national forests with horses.  The cabins are, shall we say, "quite rustic."  But, we had a great mattress, a good hot shower, and a good steak.

Some mechanical mentions:

I had to drive in to Burlington, WA on one day to get the muffler replaced on the camper.  Ben Richards Fabrication did an excellent job, using an IMCO muffler, price $189 installed, all clamped installation, no welds.

Overall gas mileage, 20.22 mpg, burning ethanol free when available.  Poorest gas mileage leg, 16.7 mpg from Boyce City, OK to Woodward, OK in brutal winds and running A.C. part way, and 17.2 mpg from Limon, CO to Boyce City, OK, also brutal winds and running A.C.  Best gas mileage leg 22.6 mpg, from Jackson, WY in and around Grand Teton N.P., to Lander, WY.

A.C. did great, btw, cooling the van when ambient temperatures exceeded 100 F.

Ran Castrol 20W50 oil entire route, did not change en route.  Consumed about 0.5 quart total trip, did not replace as started trip with new oil and level at the top mark on the dipstick.  Oil pressure ran generally 30 - 40 psi at cruising speed of 60 mph, usually at about 3.4k rpm.  On two occasions, oil pressure light briefly flickered at idle after long climbs at ambient temperatures above 100 F, but stopped flickering immediately when engine cooled only slightly.

No mechanical problems except needing to replace the muffler, which I should have anticipated and replaced before leaving, but was told in the spring at two different exhaust shops here that it should last a good long while yet.

Passenger side windshield wiper became loose and flopped about during a thunderstorm in Wyoming on outbound.  The stud had snapped.  While getting the muffler replaced in Burlington, I made a couple of inquiries about getting parts, but did not really want to spend the time to track down parts and fix it.  I was told that I would need to replace the "transmission," that the stud cannot be replaced.  Is this true?  One guy offered to get a transmission from a bone yard, wanting $260 for the part, and $70 for labor, and it would take him two days to get the part.  Is this right?  I just removed the wiper and put it under the seat, and cleaned the windshield really well before wiping it thoroughly with "RainX."  It did not rain on us for the rest of the trip, maybe RainX works (ha ha).  I'll see what I can do now that we are home.

Vanagon sightings numerous, especially in Washington and Oregon.  Visited briefly with "Dave" at Medicine Park CG, who was there with his '83 camper.  He spoke favorably of the pop top lift struts he installed, the ones from Idaho.  I plan to order them.

Well, thanks to any who read all of this.  Dave Mc