Date:         Wed, 8 Aug 2012 09:38:36 -0500
Reply-To:     ddbjorkman@VERIZON.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Bjorkman <ddbjorkman@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: Refrigerator gasket and flame goes out remedies
Comments: To: sitongia@ONEBEAM.NET
Content-type: text/html; charset=UTF-8

<DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 24px"><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma>Hi;</FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma>Hope your fridge isn't already back in.&nbsp; If you want to go all out, one of the best things you can do is install an internal fan.&nbsp; A big problem with the Dometic is when it's full, the cold does not get around.&nbsp; It stays by the fins at the top of the unit.&nbsp; A fix to this is to install a small computer power supply fan next to the fins.&nbsp; This will move the cold air around and amaze you at how well the fridge can work.</FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma>Check the archives for more info on installation and best fan.</FONT></DIV><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma>Dave B.</FONT></DIV><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><DIV style="MARGIN: 5px 0px; BORDER-TOP: #bcbcbc 1px solid"></DIV><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px">On 08/05/12, <SPAN>Leonard Sitongia&lt;<A class=parsedEmail href="mailto:sitongia@ONEBEAM.NET" target=_blank>sitongia@ONEBEAM.NET</A>&gt;</SPAN> wrote:</SPAN><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px">Hi,<BR><BR>I have the Dometic 182 refrigerator out of my Westy and I'm trying to<BR>address the problem in that it won't stay lit. Spark is okay. Ignites.<BR>After minutes, the flame goes out.<BR><BR>There was a bug in the burn box, but it was just a loose bug, not<BR>plugging any holes.<BR><BR>The thermocouple wire insulation is frayed at the point where it makes a<BR>bend to the burn box. Looks like the wire is intact. Maybe I should<BR>replace it. How can I test it on a bench? Can I power the fridge on 110v<BR>and use water to test it or does that risk damaging the thermocouple<BR>sensor, especially since there is fraying.<BR><BR>I'm also doing whatever I can to help it to work better. I've done the<BR>air pump modifications, drilling the hole out and adding the one-way<BR>valve. I've also replaced the back-side fin fan with the Go Westy box fan.<BR><BR>The gasket (the one with the six screws through it) on the burn box had<BR>cracks. I've used Ultra Copper high-temp silicone to REPLACE the gasket.<BR>Now I just re-read a site that suggests the silicone be used ON the old<BR>gasket. My first QUESTION is, did I screw up? I thought that the silicone<BR>is a gasket MAKER, not a sealant. Do I need to put the old gasket in WITH<BR>the sealant on both sides of it?<BR><BR>My other QUESTIONS are regarding the troubleshooting of this problem from<BR>the Dometic Service Manual (RM182B Edition 2, August 1982). The chart on<BR>p. 10 relates possible causes referring to parts that I don't have an ID<BR>for.<BR><BR>The "safety valve" is connected to the button you hold in while lighting,<BR>right? It has a "valve magnet"? How can I troubleshoot this?<BR><BR>Where is there "gauze in the burner head"? When I took the burn box<BR>apart, there's a tube with slots in one end, which is where I assume the<BR>flame is. Is there supposed to be gauze in that tube?<BR><BR>Where is the "By-pass flame"?<BR><BR>Thanks for your help!<BR><BR>--<BR>==Leonard<BR></DIV></DIV>