Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 18:35:14 -0500
Reply-To: mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: windshield wiper repair
In-Reply-To: <50300b45.8880cd0a.6bde.6da9@mx.google.com>
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---- David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET> wrote:
For
> larger ones solid-handled affairs resembling die stocks, with a
> two-jaw chuck operated by screwing in one of the handles.
That is my tap handle.
> > Working very slowly, with oil, I was able to keep the tap moving
> > without it going off course.
>
> This is purely a matter of dimensions. The socket is a solid
> casting; there's no point where the soft metal stops and hard takes
> over. If you have a small enough hole left to marry to the splines
> without them sticking out too far or the arm bottoming on something,
> it will work.
>
> Were you certain that the splines were shiny-clean? The old splines
> from the arm shear off and stay in the grooves between the splines on
> the shaft, and must be removed.
I recheck and re-recheck. I washed with oil and a wire brush. but I'll redo that, and check the thing out with my botanists lens. then try to marry the two parts again, once I know it is clean. Nothing to lose by doing it, that's for sure.
>
> >BTW, Alistair, I did use a prick punch and then a larger center
> >punch. The stud (which was cut down actually into the conical shaft
> >in order to get a flat surface to work with) showed no tendency to
> >move, though I whacked pretty good, but with a light ball peen hammer.
>
> Light hammer is the key - you want to upset the surface of the shaft,
> not move it. In electronics terms you're matching the impedance of
> the driver to the load.
>
>
> >So far as center is concerned, I hit what I perceived as center with
> >the prick punch, and examined the stud with a 3x botanist's field
> >lens. I accepted that I had hit center,
>
> For a mounting bolt that has to be plenty good.
>
>
> >Though I did not accomplish this job as I'd hoped, I really do
> >appreciate all the pointers and advice given.
>
> Re-check those male splines before you give up. There is a
> deterministic reason why you didn't get splines cut on the female
> part, and it's not that you ran out of cuttable metal. It has
> something to do with dimensions/interference or insufficient clamping pressure.
>
> Yours,
> David
--
David McNeely
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