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Date:         Sat, 18 Aug 2012 18:35:14 -0500
Reply-To:     mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: windshield wiper repair
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <50300b45.8880cd0a.6bde.6da9@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

---- David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET> wrote: For > larger ones solid-handled affairs resembling die stocks, with a > two-jaw chuck operated by screwing in one of the handles.

That is my tap handle.

> > Working very slowly, with oil, I was able to keep the tap moving > > without it going off course. >

> This is purely a matter of dimensions. The socket is a solid > casting; there's no point where the soft metal stops and hard takes > over. If you have a small enough hole left to marry to the splines > without them sticking out too far or the arm bottoming on something, > it will work. > > Were you certain that the splines were shiny-clean? The old splines > from the arm shear off and stay in the grooves between the splines on > the shaft, and must be removed.

I recheck and re-recheck. I washed with oil and a wire brush. but I'll redo that, and check the thing out with my botanists lens. then try to marry the two parts again, once I know it is clean. Nothing to lose by doing it, that's for sure. > > >BTW, Alistair, I did use a prick punch and then a larger center > >punch. The stud (which was cut down actually into the conical shaft > >in order to get a flat surface to work with) showed no tendency to > >move, though I whacked pretty good, but with a light ball peen hammer. > > Light hammer is the key - you want to upset the surface of the shaft, > not move it. In electronics terms you're matching the impedance of > the driver to the load. > > > >So far as center is concerned, I hit what I perceived as center with > >the prick punch, and examined the stud with a 3x botanist's field > >lens. I accepted that I had hit center, > > For a mounting bolt that has to be plenty good. > > > >Though I did not accomplish this job as I'd hoped, I really do > >appreciate all the pointers and advice given. > > Re-check those male splines before you give up. There is a > deterministic reason why you didn't get splines cut on the female > part, and it's not that you ran out of cuttable metal. It has > something to do with dimensions/interference or insufficient clamping pressure. > > Yours, > David

-- David McNeely


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