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Date:         Sat, 25 Aug 2012 20:44:23 -0400
Reply-To:     Tom Buese <tantonbz@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tom Buese <tantonbz@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: battery kill switch
Comments: To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CAHTkEu+UtqsUejE1J=YTdZjLqvEgvGhupeCtxZ5MaNo2RbZNVw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Don, you didn't "bother me"-I was just giving another less expensive option for the non Porsche racing types if they wanted to keep their Vanagon from getting stolen or crashing into a wall.

YMMV.

Cheers,

Mr.BZ-I do use the Porch fave Swepco 201

On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 7:27 PM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote:

> Well geeze, guys....sorry I bothered you trying to help by posting an > option that I know exists. sigh... > > I don't know the specific (part #?) switch that might go into any > particular application. There are lots of them listed with various > configurations and specs. You'd have to read up and decide. There seems > to be room for most all of the offerings in that Pegassus Racing or Summit > Racing, or JC Whitney and yes....even Harbor Freight. > > The thing about Harbor Freight and JC W.....their quality control sucks! > If you are actually going to use something, depend on having it work > every time, I'd skip Harbor Freight... > > For something like a Battery cut-off switch...on a race car they are > tested at each track outing at the Tech Inspection .You drive up and the > Tech guys reach out and switch off your "Power" switch, to see if it > actually will work, just in case a corner worker has to use it later in > the day to prevent an explosion or something, should you crash or be > crashed...... Say you mounted one of the H.F. ones and it doesn't > work......You fail the tech inspection, right there...You'll then miss your > race...Dumb. You could be out a whole lot of time and money because you > tried to save a few bucks on a cheap switch.....Or your car could 'not > start' Yeah, there isn't much to a switch...but HF manages to screw up > even bulb sockets with NO moving parts, so.... > > I don't need to kill all the power in my vanagon very often, and when I > do it doesn't bother me to pull the battery terminals...Yeah, a external > main battery switch would be handy..but I haven't found the time or a > pressing need for one yet. > > If I ever do, I think I will probably select a marine type Battery switch > with positions for "Batt A/ Batt B/ Both batt/ and Batt OFF" > options...Those are clunky and big and expensive but they do the things I > would want....For now, I get by with a mechanical relay ala Ford > pickup/camper option and pulling the terminals of the battery's. > > Don Hanson > On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 7:52 AM, Tom Buese <tantonbz@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Those kill switches look identical to ones @ HF which I believe I paid > > about $3 for a battery shutoff switch. > > Must be the difference between an Apple & a Samsung? > > > > YMMV, > > > > Mr. BZ-never got around to installing > > > > > > On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 9:43 AM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote: > > > > > oh that's all great don, but why not tell us which models fit vanagons, > > > especially vanagons with battery under front passenger seat. > > > > > > alistair > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 2012-08-24, at 9:46 PM, Don Hanson wrote: > > > > > > > Most of the racer supply houses have main electrical switches that > can > > > > take all the power from the vehicle. They are required on racecars. > > > Lots > > > > are activated with a pull handle that is wired to be accessable > outside > > > the > > > > vehicle in the event of a crash where the driver might be > unconscious, > > > > etc....The track crew can see this red handle clearly marked, jerk > it, > > > and > > > > all the power is cut... > > > > > > > > Many of these switches have a removable "key"..too. It would > be a > > > > simple task to install one near the passenger seat, into the main > > battery > > > > area....with the wire pull for use to the outside of a race car, you > > > could > > > > also have a mechanical 'remote' switch..... > > > > > > > > If this link works.... > > > > https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SWITCHBATT > > > > > > > > They even have some that have a feature to save your > > > > alternator...whatever that means.... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Derek Drew <derekdrew@derekmail.com > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > >> How many amps is that thing rated for? > > > >> > > > >> Also, have you got a before and after voltage drop during starting? > > > >> > > > >> If we get positive answers to these questions, I think this is > really > > > >> a great device, and may even be better than a bucket full of relays, > > > >> isolators, and combiners. > > > >> > > > >> The reason I say this is because I have been using this method for > > > >> years, only instead of a switch, I have just been grabbing the > > > >> terminal and shoving it on and off the battery as needed and to my > > > >> astonishment, it seems to work really well to do it that way however > > > >> goofy it sounds. > > > >> > > > >> And I used to use relays and love relays! But it is hard to find > good > > > >> practical relays relay rated at 400 amps. (Winch, 30amp inverter). > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> At 06:29 PM 8/24/2012, you wrote: > > > >> > > > >>> The recent posts on Yahoo syncro group and the Samba about serious > > > >>> electrical faults causing fires and or van moving by itself, plus a > > > >>> timely trip to Princess Auto got me a kill switch for main battery > > > >>> > > > >>> http://shufti.wordpress.com/**2012/08/24/vanagon-main-** > > > >>> battery-kill-switch/< > > > > http://shufti.wordpress.com/2012/08/24/vanagon-main-battery-kill-switch/ > > > > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> alistair > > > >>> > > > >> > > > >> ______________________________**_________________ > > > >> Derek Drew > > > >> Washington DC / New York > > > >> derekdrew@derekmail.com > > > >> Email is best normally but... > > > >> PHONE: 202-966-7907 (Call the number at left normally) > > > >> (alt/cell for diligent calling only): 703-408-1532 > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Tom Buese > > >

-- Tom Buese


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