Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 17:47:50 -0700
Reply-To: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Poor Hot Start Discovery - midway through solution
In-Reply-To: <503a985f.0284cd0a.60d1.ffffe10f@mx.google.com>
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"On the 2.1l they used a two-pin housed connector [on the T-II sensor]
like the ones on the fuel injectors, and put it in a rather exposed
position."
My 1.9 has a blue 2-pin housed connector for T-II that is quite like the
yellow injector connectors except being smaller (I think). And yeah, the
thing is hangin' off the side of the thermostat housing.
Not starting an argument, just sayin'.
And, BTW, it wasn't until I hosed out the engine compartment (following
Mssr. S. Daniels's procedure) that I discovered that the fuel injector
connectors were a cheerful yellow.
"Those little female pins don't have much tension so they
won't scrub a connection clean the way a Faston will."
Aye, they are wimpy. Can connectors do Kegel?
--
Jack "Rocket j Squirrel" Elliott
1984 Westfalia, auto trans,
Bend, Ore.
On 08/26/2012 02:42 PM, David Beierl wrote:
> At 11:05 PM 8/25/2012, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>> Ecu connection not likely to be an issue.
>
> Agree.
>
>> Check connections to Temp Sensor II very carefully.
>
> Triple agree. If that blinks open the ECU thinks you've suddenly
> landed at McMurdo Station, and starts throwing gas like a
> pyromaniac. Enough to make it lurch running down the road, and die
> coming to a stop. On your 1.9l you can tighten the female Faston
> connector after cleaning the post, and a little dab of Vaseline or
> Copper-Shield or Sil-Glyde or dielectric grease on it will keep salt
> and moisture away. On the 2.1l they used a two-pin housed connector
> like the ones on the fuel injectors, and put it in a rather exposed
> position. Those little female pins don't have much tension so they
> won't scrub a connection clean the way a Faston will. I'm fighting
> with an intermittent there right now and tightening the pins a bit
> hasn't helped.
>
>> Make sure you are using a high quality temp sensor II ,not a cheap one.
>
> Agree. I've taken several apart - the cheap brand was not as well
> constructed and one had a seal problem allowing moisture inside.
>
>> Is the throttle switch making contact at idle ? Very important.
>
> I agree, but it's not going to keep a 1.9l from starting (or a 2.1l
> either, though it will mess with the 2.1l idle more as the idle stab
> system on the 2.1l is much more elaborate and is aware of the switch
> condition, which the 1.9l idle stab is not).
>
>> just for fun, if you are using Premium fuel in that engine, try
>> mid-grade or regular.
>
> ?
>
>
>> if it's 'normal flooding' ....gas pedal on the floor might help clean
>> itself out so it can fire up.
>
> My experience yes, at least for mild flooding.
>
>> clutch pedal up or down should have no bearing.
>> it's easier on things to start with clutch pedal up and in neutral,
>> which I always recommend.
>
> I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's easier to turn the
> throwout bearing than to turn all the gears in the transmission
> running in soupy gear oil, even when it's not icy cold. Aside from
> that, it's a safety issue - having it as your normal habit to crank
> with the clutch depressed is one more line of defence against having
> the car move unexpectedly. Many vehicles won't let you crank unless
> the clutch is in.
>
>> I might also check into available voltage during cranking for EFI and
>> ignition. I have [not] seen that on n 84 wbxr ..but I have seen
>> that on some vehicles
>> before ... cranks very strongly ...but won't fire up easily.
>> if you ever see a case where just as you let off 'start' back to 'on'
>> and it fires up then ..
>> that is a sign that this syndrome is occurring.
>
> Good call. Not common but it happens. In fact I was just reading
> recently of a manufacturing problem with a certain well-known vehicle
> where on a hot start the ECU voltage would dip low enough to force it
> to reboot, causing I forget what problem. Things like that don't
> require long periods of low voltage; a few milliseconds may suffice.
>
>> Never hurts to check all the grounds ..
>> they corrode over time, and are often not considered.
>
> !
>
> Yours,
> David
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