Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 21:10:28 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Brake Pedal Pulse Questions
In-Reply-To: <CAB2RwfiJS4z=p0SO0PZDD5Wtc3SXpSHOo=uaDn2cm1Q2XzJ5kw@mail.gmail.com>
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here's what is *perfect* at the rear.
Set the jack stands diagonally at the outer ends of the rear trailing
arms ...
'hooked' between there and the jacking point.
being diagonal like this ..it gives the most resistance to the van
moving forward ..
or sideways.
It's not hard at all to pull a vehcile off jackstands really.
A floor jack doesn't go straight up ..
it goes up in an arc.
So ....as long as the floor jack wheels are on a smooth hard surface and
can roll slightly ( watch for them to turn as you jack up ) ....you're fine.
if the wheels say are stuck in dirt or gravel ..
the rising arc of the jack pad on the floor jack can pull the van right
off the stands ..
either fore-aft or sideways.
it's not that hard to do really.
in the front you are stuck with using them on the jack points inline or
sideways.
Sideways is not very good ..so inline.
never jack with a floor jack from the side once one end is on jack stands...
there will be a pulling force ..always use the floor jack 'in line' from
the front for sure.
it helps to raise and support the rear first, then from with floor jack
in line with the van, not sideways.
( fine to do the rear from the side first..
jack on the front transmission mount if manual trans.
if auto trans ...I made an adapter quickly out of some 2 X 6's long ago
..so the weight is on the frame members alongside the auto trans front
mount. )
it's common sense ..
I'm sure people's brains can see these forces in action if they look at
it carefully and think a little.
I like really big jack stands, Truck size, with a base that's about 11 X
11 inches or so.
4 good ones like that, and you'll be set for life.
they have moving parts so they need greasing once in a while, as do all
floor jacks.
they need regular wheel axle lubing ( gear oil works great ) ..all the
pivot points need lubing every once in a while etc.
Can't stand rusty dry metal myself, unless it's a static art display
with no moving parts.
scott
turbovans
On 8/23/2012 11:15 AM, neil n wrote:
> Right. And I wondered about how the subframe or other suitable point might
> rest on the (jaw?) of a given jack stand like this:
>
> http://www.mytoolstore.com/heinwer/hw93503.jpg
>
> assuming the jack stand was level but the vehicle line was following the
> slope.
>
> Neil.
>
> On Wed, Aug 22, 2012 at 8:24 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
>
> At 03:26 PM 8/22/2012, neil n wrote:
>>
>> For what I need, 2 ramps should suffice for now. (work on one end of
>>> vehicle at a time)
>>>
>> Safer to have all four, though if the other end is chocked very securely
>> perhaps it would be all right.
>>
>> But by getting all four support points (wheels or jack stands) on a level
>> surface, you've eliminated any forces tending to topple the stands or
>> otherwise move the vehicle horizontally, and you've ensured that the center
>> of load on the stand runs right down through the middle and not off to one
>> side where it would require less force to topple it from the other side.
>>
>> --
> Neil n
>
> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>
> '88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
>
> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
