Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 18:28:07 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Still need HELP with hot start problem 84 Vanagon!
In-Reply-To: <0AA9AD8F02674D53A0C92A63DED754A9@George>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
Hi,
pardon my density .
first you say 'when I return, it won't crank.'
then you say ...'it turns over but no cylinders fire.'
so does it crank nicely on the starter when hot or not ?
if it doesn't ..work on that.
if it cranks well, but won't fire up that's something else.
here's some thoughts o that ..
if it is cranking nicely on the starter but won't fire up ..
there are a few things you can do.
One ..see if it wants to fire up just as you let off from 'start' back
to only 'on'.
( don't just give up and turn the key back to off )
I have not seen a vanagon do this ..
but I have seen a subaru-vanagon do that badly and maddeningly ..
and I've seen old points-type ignition cars do that.
You can also test for this by if it push or rolls starts fine hot ..
the whole approach being that not enough juice is getting where it
belongs during starter cranking.
I've seen cars that crank like *gangbusters* ..yet won't fire up .
I fixed that subaru-vanagon with attention to battery cables ...lots of
attention, eventually I got it.
It was basically not enough juice getting to the fuel injection system
during starter cranking.
and the starter was not causing it either.
another approach .
*always* rig a remote starter switch so you can crank it with you by the
engine.
Having the technician up front while there is a starting issue won't get
you very far.
Then ..
while cranking it from back there.....use a noid light to check for
injector pulse.
Check for nice fat spark out of the coil .
and fuel filters must always be checked for any weird starting or
running condition.
at the minimum..
restricted /weak fuel delivery and supply system must always be considered..
as well as clogged/restricted cat or muffler.
I have seen quite chronically, and intermittently.............. a faulty
Idle Stabilizer ..
that 3 X 3 inch plastic box - usually they are green, some are black.
that is distinct from the Ignitor ....which is what I think you mean by
ignition module.
I have never seen a bad one really - Igniter.
I have seen the white wire in the connector to it pushed back out of place..
this is the one wire that the ECU sees the engine is turning from. If
it's not making contact, engine can not run.
The idle stabilizer can be bypassed, and I prefer to have one connected
and in the circuit for normal driving.
I've seen Idle Stabilizer be definitely faulty, and intermittent.
I have seen some bad and intermittent Hall Senders in the distributor.
Consider that.
if you have 'when I return, and it's hot, it won't crank'
than that is a whole other case and let's talk about that, if that's the
case.
In all cases try to come up with test methods and not just trying parts.
There are *many* simple inexpensive test devices that can help a lot.
I'd start with a remote starter switch ..mandatory equipment in my book.
scott
www.turbovans.com
On 9/3/2012 5:52 PM, George Averill wrote:
> All,
> Well, I need some more help. I thought I had the problem solved, but it seems I don't. If I keep replacing items, I may soon have a new bus!
>
> The problem is that the van will not start for about 45 minutes after it reaches running temperature and I turn it off. It runs great while it is running. Cold start is not a problem. No problems at all. If I drive about 20 miles and go in a store, when I return it won't crank. If I wait for another 45 minutes or so it cranks. Drive a few miles, turn it off to go in another store, and the same thing happens again. The engine turns over, but no cylinders fire.
>
> I have done the following
> 1. Replaced the ignition switch
> 2. Replaced the coil
> 3. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator
> 4. Replaced the idle module
> 5. Replaced the air valve
> 6. Replaced the injectors
> 7. Cleaned all ground connectors, those on the motor and the bonding cable between the frame and the transmission. The van has never been to the beach or run on salted roads. No corrosion any place.
> 8. Replaced the temperature sensor.
> 9. Replaced the wire from the computer to the temperature sensor.
>
> Tomorrow I am going to see if I can find some liquid air and try cooling down some connectors to see if that may be a problem. I think that the last time this happened it was getting fire. I will check again to be certain.
>
> Any suggestions will be appreciated. I'm getting too old to keep this up much longer.
>
> George
> 84, Georgia
>
