Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 13:24:16 -0400
Reply-To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Radiator thermo switch
In-Reply-To: <32604425.498672.1348057767580.JavaMail.root@vznit170176>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
After removing the 4 screws you tilt the headlite assy out and let it
hang by the wires, or whatever you are comfortable with.
Here is my recent post from another list:
Study the circuit diagram in the Bentley. Find the radiator fan
resistor behind the driver's side headlight. Remove and look at it
carefully and check it with an ohmmeter. You may find that it is not a
complete circuit electrically and you might be able to see a place
where the ceramic coating is cracked and a slight burned spot.
If this is the case, you can, of course, buy a new resistor or you can
attempt a repair. I have been successful in picking the coating away
and soldering a short piece of solid copper wire across the gap. The
repaired area and perhaps the whole resistor then needs to be coated
to protect it from the weather and absorb the heat from the exposed
wire. I have had the most success with many coats of high temp BBQ
grill paint.
I have had resistors fail like this from 3 different vans. A repaired
one has now been in service on my daily driver for perhaps 50 hours.
Have fun,
Larry A.
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 8:29 AM, David Bjorkman <ddbjorkman@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> A-ha, I knew there was more to this. Thanks all for the info (resistor and
> test info especially). As soon as the weather clears, I am going to check
> the system out. How much of a job is it to replace the resistor? Solder
> joint or more to it? Remove headlight or entire assembly? Etc.
>
> Thanks;
> Dave B.
>
> On 09/18/12, Dennis Haynes<d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> On an 87 with AC the more likely culprit is the speed resister located
> behind the left side headlight assembly. On this set up both speeds use a
> relay. Low speed is on the fuse box. High speed is above the fuse box under
> the dash. It gets a fusible link and a separate supply wire from the
> battery. The AC system should operate the fan also on a low speed anytime
> the compressor is running. If it does not along with the radiator not
> turning it on the resistor is the common problem. Also there is a 30 amp
> fuse for fan controls and low speed.
>
>
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> David Bjorkman
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 3:30 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Radiator thermo switch
>
>
>
> Hi Volks;
>
> All of a sudden, my radiator fan only works on high. I was driving slowly in
> traffic, with the A/C on . My lovely wife looks over and says "Gee, I've
> never seen the temp guage that high". Holy smokes, I look down and the
> needle is at least a full needle width above the LED (Inline 4 FAS
> motor-cast iron -:)). Even in Mesa, AZ this past June at 110+ F with the A/C
> on I have never seen it that high. I wasn't even sure the gage itself would
> go that high. Well, just at that point the high fan kicked in. As I thought
> about it, I had only heard the fan kick in (I usually kinda note those
> things as past esperience is a harsh teacher) on high at all that afternoon.
> I have heard that A/C has some sort of a high fan kickin, althouht I am not
> sure how to tell the thermo switch high fan from the A/C high fan, if there
> is one, so I am not sure if the thermo switch was working at all, but the
> fan sure was. I took the bus onto a street where I could travel at 30-40 MPH
> and it cooled right down to just below mid LED, where it usually runs.
>
> Anyway, unless someone thinks otherwise and can enlighten me, I am assuming
> it is the radiator thermo switch. Haven't looked yet, but can I trust a
> FLAPS switch (if avaliable, to save me a wait for the mail), or should I go
> right to one of our friendlu, helpful vendors?
>
>
>
> Dave B.
>
> '87 Westy w/FASTT inline 4
>
> '84 Westy WBX
>
| 
