Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 17:06:41 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 2.1 assemble
In-Reply-To: <00d601cd9b4e$daea1260$90be3720$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
It would be impossible on at least one of the main bearings, which are
one-piece cylinder type bearings. I usually take that piece in, since the
measurement is so critical. I could do it with telescoping gauges, but
there's always room for error. You want a good inside micrometer on it. The
good thing about telescoping gauges is that the same instrument is used to
measure the gauge that is used to measure the journal, so even if it's out
of calibration, the measurement will be right. But it's just easier and
safer to have it measured at a machine shop.
Jim
On Tue, Sep 25, 2012 at 1:52 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>wrote:
> Did you use Plastigage to check the bearing fit? As long as you are at it,
> what the heck. I use it on all my engines, but it would be a bit of a PITA
> with the WBX.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Finn Runyon
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 10:41 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: 2.1 assemble
>
> I believe that Chris Corkins and Rocky Jennings, both well thought of
> engine
> builders recommend a dry assemble before sealing the case halves. Dry does
> not mean without bearings or grease. I have checked all of the tolerances
> and replaced the rods with a Van cafe remanufactured set that has the old
> 1.9 bolts. Torque to 33# and no additional half turn. So I assembled the
> two halves and everything is clear and spins well and is tight. I
> installed
> the #1 piston and sleve to check the fit of the AA 95.5 pistons because
> they
> obviously are bigger than stock. I think I am good to go with cracking the
> halves again and sealing her up! Any advice is welcome... Thanks to Scott
> and all who have offered advice and support. This is an amazing community!
> I will post some pictures once it is together....sparkling clean, nicely
> painted and very pretty...
>
> Best,
> Finn Runyon
> 89 Westy Roo
> 87 Westy Pooh
>
> On Sep 25, 2012, at 11:17 AM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I have never done a "dry" assembly on an engine in preparation for
> assembling it. If you know how to use a torque wrench, have measured your
> clearances, and have the parts put in the right way, you don't need a dry
> run.
> >
> > You have to have everything on the rank (rods, bearings, caps) to
> assemble
> it anyway. You will find out if anything is binding as you go.
> >
> > DO NOT forget to replace those 2.1 rod bolts or get a set of diesel
> bolts.
> They cannot be used twice.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 25, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Finn Runyon <finnrunyon@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am slowly starting to reassemble my 2.1 after a full teardown. It has
> been recommended on Samba to "dry" assemble the bottom end, pistons and
> cylinders to check for clearance issues. I am using the AA 95.5 pistons.
> I
> have the #1 piston and cylinder in place and there are no clearance issues.
> My question is do I need to install all 4 jugs and pistons, or can I assume
> that if there is no issue on #1 that they all will be OK.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Finn Runyon
> > 89 Westy Roo
> > 87 Westy Pooh
> >
>
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