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Date:         Tue, 25 Sep 2012 21:26:25 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 2.1 assemble
Comments: To: Finn Runyon <finnrunyon@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <41E108D5-7F46-495A-8D32-B057080818A4@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Part of the answer here is what happened to the engine that required the teardown? These engine cases are consumable and a number of failures can render them in need of work or repair.

With the case opened, carefully check the center webs where the bearings sit. You want to see machine marks. Get a good machinists straight edge and check all surfaces, straight and diagonally across. Both sides need everything perfectly flat.

Put the case together empty. Snug up the bolts/nuts around the outside. Do not install the nuts holding the bearings, just the outer flange. Get a bright light and place at the pulley end. Take a good look at the center webs. If you see light coming through the webs you have a problem. When you tighten up the bearing through bolts the case will distort to take up this space. This will pull the cylinder seats out of parallel and prevent you from getting a proper seal at the heads. The fix becomes complicated. Either the case surfaces have to be welded up and re-machined, or they can just be machined and after the align bore of both cam and crank bores the cylinders will need to have the deck height adjusted to compensate for the new case dimensions.

While the case is tighter, you want to test fit the empty cylinders, no rings onto the case. Again use the straight edge to make sure the tops are level and straight across both cylinders on both sides. Only after all these checks pass should the case be re-used.

Next is to tighten up the bearing bolts and check the bearing bores for size and concentricity. If the engine had oil pressure problems worn main bearing journals are the usual cause. On a running engine worn mains can be felt, not heard. The center usually wears the most due to crank whipping and the split bearing.

If still good, now to test bearing fit. Take case apart. Install bearings, crank and cam by themselves. Put case together. Check that all bearings are tight and seated. If any can be moved, you need the align bore or some luck with one of the Loctite products.

Now you also need to test the head studs. Get some good 10 mm nuts. Place your cylinders and heads in position and test torque the heads down. Any studs that keep stretching or twisting need to be replaced. Keep in mind that all internal leaks of combustion gasses into the cooling system that are not due to a cracked head are the result of multiple stud tension failures. ALL OF THEM! A broken stud means a tow home, antifreeze in the oil or on the ground, and depending where it breaks a full teardown and a dedicated machinist to remove it.

Now after all this you can put it together.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Finn Runyon Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 10:42 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 2.1 assemble

Hi All,

I am slowly starting to reassemble my 2.1 after a full teardown. It has been recommended on Samba to "dry" assemble the bottom end, pistons and cylinders to check for clearance issues. I am using the AA 95.5 pistons. I have the #1 piston and cylinder in place and there are no clearance issues. My question is do I need to install all 4 jugs and pistons, or can I assume that if there is no issue on #1 that they all will be OK.

Thanks, Finn Runyon 89 Westy Roo 87 Westy Pooh


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