Date:         Tue, 6 Nov 2012 20:36:02 -0500
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Comments: To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
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              mail.com>
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At 06:08 PM 11/6/2012, neil n wrote:
>Will the XLPE not take well to soldering? Any other reasons to not use
>it?  (this will be used with headlight upgrade)

Soldering should be fine although I must emphasize that you must have
a sound mechanical joint (Western Union splice for example) *before*
soldering as solder is not load-bearing.  I personally favor
marine-grade butt crimp connectors with shrink tube/glue to seal
against any entry; but regular 3M, T&B Answorth or other good quality
butt connectors should be ok.  Nylon insulation is better than vinyl,
but either is ok for automotive use.

Stress relief must be carried up the wire beyond the point where any
solder has wicked, as otherwise there will be a hard spot that will
break prematurely.

I have to warn against using XLPE wire for this application.  XLPE is
meant to be run in a raceway, for wiring a switchboard or similar
low-vibration applications.  Automotive use is a very severe
environment, and automotive wire has 19 strands (in the medium sizes)
for a reason.
Ref:
http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=XLPE-Control-Cable-UL-SIS-XHHW-2
http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=Type-GPT

If you really want to do it up brown, marine tinned wire like
http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=GPTM-Tinned-Copper  will
make your life easier down the road, but it isn't cheap.

Yours,
DAvid

Yours,
David