Date:         Wed, 7 Nov 2012 15:53:53 -0500
Reply-To:     Mike S <mikes@FLATSURFACE.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mike S <mikes@FLATSURFACE.COM>
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <509abf25.0449340a.1c3d.fffffcc6@mx.google.com>
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On 11/7/2012 3:05 PM, David Beierl wrote:
> I am concerned
> about it in a high-vibration environment like a car, but I'm more
> concerned with the hard spot that the solder leaves when it wicks up
> into the strands.  For these reasons I personally am leery of solder
> joints under these conditions, ...   It must be stressed of
> course that a cheap crimp connector is useless, and insufficient
> crimping force likewise.

A good, gas-tight crimp has been proven to be better than solder. But
you really need a good ratcheting crimp tool with the proper dies to
achieve one, especially with those insulated crimp connectors. The
common, pliers-like ones, with the half round recesses don't work well,
if at all. And those are what people who don't often have a need to
crimp usually end up working with. I'd trust solder before a crimp made
with one of those.

Crimp or solder, relief is necessary, as both create a natural flexure
point where the wire can fatigue. Electrical tape should be enough,
unless the wire is subject to repeated bending (more than simple vibration).