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Date:         Sun, 18 Nov 2012 18:42:42 -0800
Reply-To:     John Goubeaux <john@UCSB.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Goubeaux <john@UCSB.EDU>
Organization: UCSB
Subject:      Re: loose rear axle nut
In-Reply-To:  <50A5581B.6070505@turbovans.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice on the rear hub maintenance. I found my 1 13/16 socket and along with a breaker bar and a length of pipe re-torqued the rear axle nut ( I got another "notch" out of it) replaced the cotter pin with a new one and the noise I was hearing has gone away ! I will, however , keep an eye on the hub and consider pulling the whole assembly apart when I have more time and inspecting as well as likely just replacing the bearings . Maybe when I do the CV joints ?

Someone pointed out that IF the spacer wears the nut will eventually bottom out ( not have any more threads to tighten on) and not achieve any more purchase on the hub BUT as far as I can see there is still the same amount of threads exposed on both axles, eg each side of the car, so I am thinking that this axle nut was just not torqued enough originally and I am in good shape as far as wear goes

-john

On 11/15/2012 1:01 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote: > Not many people have an impact gun that will produce that much torque. > You would need one that claims peak torque of something like 900 ft lbs. > > and no one has a 360 ft lb torque wrench unless they work on 18 Wheeler > Trucks or Tanksor something like that. > > just the good ole serious breaker bar ( a half inch swivel head one is > way weak and won't cut it at all really )... > need like 3/4 inch drive, > and a good cheater bar pipe. > > and that still will not get some nuts off . Not even with a 160 lb > person standing on the end of a 4 foot bar. > > Then I heat 'em with a torch. > and even that won't always get them off. Twice I've had to cut the nut > away with a cutting torch ( which can be done without hurting the stub > axle if you're careful ) . > > just do careful good work. > S. > > > On 11/15/2012 10:55 AM, Mike B wrote: >> NEVER tighten your axle nut with an impact driver! >> 1.) You can never be sure of the exact torque. >> 2.) You can strip the threads. >> >> ONLY use a proper torque wrench and manually apply the force to tighten >> it. If none is available, use a 3/4" drive 46mm socket and breaker bar >> with a cheater pipe that fits over the bar. Foot/ pounds is calculated >> by so many pounds applied at so many feet from the fastener; so my 225 >> lb. body standing (NOT jumping!) on the spot on a bar that's 2 feet >> from the center of the axle nut will be applying 450 ft/lbs of torque to >> the nut. (or your 150 lb body standing 3 feet out will apply 450 >> ft/lbs.; so weight X distance = torque applied) , this simple method has >> worked for me for over 30 years with no fancy torque wrenches or impact >> guns. I've broken many 1/2" drive ratchets and breaker bars doing Beetle >> 36mm axle nuts to 235 ft/lbs and bought 3/4" drive stuff a couple of >> years ago. Craftsman and Snap-On have always replaced them under >> warrantee, even though I kept breaking them for years. Also, NEVER back >> off this torque to align the cotter-pin holes, ALWAYS tighten them >> further to line it up with the next hole. >> >> You will likely find that it takes a LOT more torque to break them >> loose, and you can use an impact driver to loosen them or an axle-nut >> beater tool, but some folks think that this damages your axle bearings. >> I never had this happen to me, but YMMV. >> >> Mike B. >> >> On 11/15/2012 12:45 PM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: >>> Yes, replace all of the parts! This is what can happen if a rear >>> wheel >>> falls off at 65 mph (FF to 1:34): >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGKlWqSadlQ >>> >>> >>> Last time I did this job I rented a 3/4 drive electric impact driver >>> and >>> bought a socket. >>> >>> Stuart >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On >>> Behalf Of >>> Jeff Lincoln >>> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 6:25 AM >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >>> Subject: Re: loose rear axle nut >>> >>> John, >>> >>> Listen to these guys!!!! I recently had to replace my rear wheel >>> bearings - >>> when I put everything back together I must not have gotten that nut >>> to the >>> proper torque. Everything seemed fine for a while and then I started >>> to hear >>> rumbling while on a trip. We were 3 hours from home when I stopped to >>> check >>> it and saw that one side of the cotter pin had been sheared off!!!! >>> That nut was loose as hell. We got some help and did the best we >>> could and >>> litterally limped home. >>> >>> The bearings I had just put in looked good still but I replaced tyhem >>> anyway >>> - along with the hub and stub. >>> >>> When you go to put that all back together you might think 360 ft lbs >>> is over >>> kill but it is not. I wasn't smart enough to figure out the math of my >>> weight and how long of a breaker I needed. So I just borrowd a super >>> heavy >>> duty torque wrench from a friend. It went up to 450 or 600 ft lbs or >>> something like that. I tell you when I got the wrench to 360 it was >>> still a >>> way before I hit the next cotter pin slot - I don't remember exactly >>> but I >>> was over 380 ft lbs by the time I got to that next slot. >>> >>> Good luck! >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Jeff >>> '85 GL (Gertie) >>> '78 Bus (Melissa) Patty's Bus >>


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