Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2012 13:07:06 -0800
Reply-To: Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Upper steering column grease recommendation and what else to
do while replacing ignition switch
In-Reply-To: <50CA3CE2.5010003@turbovans.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I removed the pedal assembly up and out of the instrument cluster hole as Scott outlined to fix a "clicking" clutch pedal which I assumed was due to an ovalized hole and worn pin. Only to find out when I removed it that the hole was perfectly round after 190,000 miles, and the pin was only "polished". Go figure. Most difficult Vanagon job I had attempted up to that point, maybe still is. Lubed everything that moved or pivoted down there, put it all back together with same parts, no more click 12,000 miles later.
GoWesty used to offer rebuilt welded-up clutch pedal for this worn oval-hole issue; you send your old one to them. Don't see it on their website now....call them if interested.
Rich
San Diego
--- On Thu, 12/13/12, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> wrote:
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Upper steering column grease recommendation and what else to do while replacing ignition switch
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Date: Thursday, December 13, 2012, 12:38 PM
I like thebronze bushing idea very much - sounds perfect.
the pedal assembly will come out without removing the whole dash.
It's not fun, but it will come up and out through the instrument
clusterlarge hole in the dash.
S.
On 12/13/2012 7:39 AM, JRodgers wrote:
> Whil3w working our way through this thread, a couple of things come to
> mind.....
>
> Clutch Clevis - The pin and boss on mine is worn and probably needs
> repair/replacing. When next I have the dash out I plan to do that. What
> I anticipate is not only a new clevis pin but also having the boss(area
> around the hole) bushed with a permanently lubricated bronze bushing.
> Does anyone see any problems with that? I plan to drive my van until the
> end of my days - so it needs to hold up, and I would like for it to for
> the next owner. That spot is really hard to get at for maintenance.
>
> Horn Ring - last time I replace the horn ring on my '88 GL, the
> replacement horn ring would not fit. I - and David Beierl - spent a ot
> of time trying to figure out why the steering wheel would not seat with
> the new horn ring in place. It was the correct horn ring by VW, but we
> discovered VW apparently made a change in it and there was a shoulder
> on the new one where it did not exist on the old one. The solution was
> to carefully remove the brass part from the new ring and install it on
> the old ring. Then it worked perfect. I think VW was trying to make a
> one-size-fits-all horn ring that would work across many models and the
> Vanagon got left in the dust. So be aware of this and don't throw away
> the plastic part of the old horn ring. You may need it!
>
> John
>
> On 12/12/2012 10:58 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>> another favorite 'horn trick'is when hastily inserting theignition key
>> and getting another key inthe horn contact area and making the horn blow
>> ..that's always a fun surprise.
>>
>> there are hundreds of spots on vanagons that don't get attention or
>> lubrication.
>> half the time I am +the first person ever* to lube something.
>> I even see desparatelysqueaky sliding doors after the van has been to a
>> shop ..
>> even for a whole engine install sometimes. ....and could anyone find 4
>> seconds to shoot the door sliding spots ? ...evidently 'nope.'
>> I see it all the time.
>> If nothing else I just shoot a squirt of WD into the horn contact area.
>> No need to take it all apart..
>> except to check the condition of the horn contact right. WD has *never*
>> done me wrong on any electrical contacts, not for the last 40+ years
>> anyway.
>>
>> scott
>
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