Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 23:01:08 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater flap foam replacement detail-Lever 4
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Lever 4, the lowest one does control air flow to the rear overhead vents.
However that is only fresh, non-heated air.
The little pictogram on the panel indicates maximum defrost, all levers
right and fan speed 2.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2012 10:02 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Heater flap foam replacement detail
you'll get sooner heater performance in winter Jack, by having the heater
temp lever ( controls the heater valve that controls coolant flow through
the heater core ) either on full 'cool' or barely on.
Thenafter a few minutes, turn heater temp lever to full hot.
With your flaps closed ....that could work too as you are not removing heat
from the heater core very much ..
even still, I think it's much better to have the heater circuit mostly
closed to coolant flow when things are cold at first.
If you have coolant flow happening and much air flowing over the heater
core ..
that can keep the thermostat from getting the engine to full temp directly
andas quickly as it can.
I only have two modes on my heater control levers - top lever is going to be
in the middle , or full right for defrost. I don't find that full left
really stops air flow that much.
# 2 lever is for wherever I want the temp to be.
# 3 lever... this one is key to getting warm air out by your knees when you
no longer need defrostto the windshield.
So that lever..I have full right for when I need defrost to the windshield..
all the rest of the time it is full left...so I get floor warm air.
# 4leveris about whether heat goes forward or to the back ...Ionly want my
heat going to the front, so I never move that lever.
I don't think this is spelled out clearly anywhere either , like in the
Owner's Manual.
and just keep temp levermostly off ( left ) until the engine has a chance to
warm.
I *never* sit around 'warming it up' either ..
no load on the engine ...it can't warm up very much that way.
Just start as gently as you can ..then drive off in 30 seconds or so ,
taking it real easy for the first mile or so.
Ideally ........you want it under some load cold, so it can warm up.
a really bad mode would be you live where you start out on a long downhill
run.
In a diesel ....if you had a 5 mile downhill run every time you started out
cold ...it would take forever to get to operating temp.
which is why TDI's have glow plugs in their heater circuit..
and one of these days..
I have one of those 3 glow plug coolant flanges from a diesel ...and I'll
bolt that back-to-back with another flange..
and I'll have a way to have 3 glow plugs in my waterboxer heater circuit
hose ...right at the forward end of the right cylinder head on a 1.9 wbxr
like you have.
I might plug in my block heater more . I just hate starting and engine
when it's really cold ...the first 5 minutes are pretty rough on it.
stay cozy !
scott
www.turbovans.com
some trimmed.
On 12/10/2012 5:50 PM, Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
> Dennis Haynes writes to say "Actually for heat you need to let some
> outside air in. All the heated air comes from outside. Usually the
> foam is replaced to stop of the whistling noises when closing all the
> vents is attempted."
>
> I took the heater box out this spring and serviced it. The old foam
> seals had crumbled like a sandcastle at high tide, like marzipan in a
> hot tub.
>
> But I didn't replace them. During warm weather, there's little need to
> close the flaps, and during winter I only close them while waiting for
> the engine to warm sufficiently to provide hot water to the heater core.
> This takes, what? five minutes?
>
> I have not heard any whistling w/o the foam bits while driving during
> the initial warm-up period, nor a cold draft.
>
> I'm not disappointed that I chose not to put in new foam, because it
> looked like a real PITA -- and lemme tell ya', it was a risky decision
> considering how difficult it is to get that darn heater box out. But
> we (me and my son) studied the flaps, flipped them about, discussed
> it, drank a glass of wine or two (me) or PBR (my son), looked at how
> tightly the flaps closed with no foam, and -- taking the lazy man's
> way out -- decided to to take a pass on the foam replacement step.
>
> It's worked out fine.
>
> I can't think of many situations where I'd want the flaps to stay
> closed for any length of time and when a bit of air getting through
> would be troublesome. In warm weather I like a breeze, in cold I wait
> for the core to heat then open them, and any leakage isn't a bother.
>
> Me, I'd say skip that fussy bit. Replace the heater core and the
> blower motor, lube what needs lubing, blow things out -- and be done with
it.
>
> But, as they say: YMMV.
>
> Jack out.
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