Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2012 23:27:56 -0500
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Series resistance unti question
In-Reply-To: <50D11E80.5070006@charter.net>
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At 08:55 PM 12/18/2012, Mike B wrote:
>crooked that screws won't hold it, then the clips may not help either!
The clips have their own well-constructed molded seats, not related
to the sonic-welded tabs. Incidentally they're a species of J-clip
as well, range maybe ten feet? Not sure - I never found the one that
went flying off into the driveway.
>How about a dremel rotary saw or cutoff wheel for the tabs?
Dremel saws scare the snot out of me, even with a guard. I have
several but rarely use them (and you can't run them slow enough to
cut metal, the heat just wipes the teeth right off them). OTOH I
love the cutoff wheels, both the thin unreinforced and the
fiber-reinforced ones for when the others won't do. As well as being
very effective they're quite inexpensive, unlike most Dremel bits and
grinding points which cost a good bit to use. Just make sure that
you work away from sharp edges and not toward them, 'cause the edge
will peel them down to nothing quick as quick. If used very gently
to avoid grooving, you can use them to grind surfaces. I have little
use for the "heavy-duty" unreinforced ones as the kerf is much
thicker, cutting slower and they put excessive heat in the
workpiece. And unlike the thin ones, when they break sometimes the
chips are heavy enough to sting.
But using cutoff wheels for plastic is iffy, as the plastic
melts. Dremel does have a newer quick-release series of cutoff
wheels which are very easy to use but IMO inferior to the plain ones
with a screw arbor; one of those wheels is designated for plastic. I
have one but no experience with it. Other than the higher price, my
main complaint about the quick-mount ones is that the centering isn't
accurate or repeatable as there's too much clearance between the
wheel and arbor.
The Dremel router bits might work well to eat away the tabs. That's
another place where Dremel bit off more than it could chew in terms
of the rigidity of the machine, but I keep my spare tool mounted in
their router table and use the small rounding-over bit to quickly
take the curse off wooden edges. Their plain router adapter
incidentally is somewhat useful, but the more expensive plunge router
adapter is total junk.
Their buzz-plane adapter (only fits the XLR) is another terrifying
tool, but it would certainly work on the tabs.
For those tabs, though, a jeweler's saw with a coarse (#6-#8, say?)
blade would go through them like butter. Come to think of it, I
probably used this Stanley flush-trimming saw which is flexible,
razor-sharp and cuts on the pull stroke. The design is clearly
influenced by Japanese saws, and it's an absolute pleasure to use as
intended. There's no set so it won't scar the surface you're cutting
against, but the teeth are deep to give chip clearance. Probably
about five strokes to take off one of those
tabs.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-331-4-Inch-Points-Flush/dp/B00002X2BT
A fine coping saw would do almost as well.
Yrs,
d
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David Beierl -- dbeierl@attglobal.net
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