Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2012 16:38:40 -0500
Reply-To: Mike B <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike B <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: WAS: Starter Motor... Failure: NOW: 50 Circuit Weirdness. ECU
Related?
In-Reply-To: <CAB2Rwfhcg1GKF6sMzRG-XKvXBv2Qs0EvEQRGA0_KVzBVpXBvWw@mail.gmail.com>
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You could try this, if you're good with electrical stuff and on a budget.
Turn the key to "on" (not 'start') and using a screwdriver, short
from the starter battery positive post to the solenoid push-on terminal
to check if the starter turns the engine over. If it does, it's a
problem in the key to solenoid circuitry. If it doesn't, short from the
starter batt positive terminal to the starter motor lead (bottom of the
solenoid) to check if the starter motor spins freely (it won't engage
the flywheel). If it does, the solenoid is defective and can be
replaced or rebuilt separately. If it doesn't, the starter motor is
defective and can be replaced or rebuilt. I used this troubleshooting
technique to locate a malfunctioning solenoid on my 1959 6V
screw-terminal starter (no longer available), and removed it and took it
apart by unsoldering the end and cleaning and lubricating the solenoid
piston/ cylinder and internal heavy solid copper relay contacts. I did
have to drill out 4 rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts (easy
future service?) on this antique starter, but the late ones have
threaded posts and solder connections, so they can be rebuilt. Usually
just a general cleaning and lube will make work like new again. The
problem with my old one was that carbon/dirt got in between the close
clearances inside and the oil turned to sticky tar over 50+ years. The
oil used to lube the starter/ solenoid is critical that it be a high
temp lube, as it gets very hot during use. The solenoid has two
independent windings inside, the big main one that has the power to
pull the solenoid piston in, along with the bendix mechanism that,
through a forked lever, throws the starter gear into the flywheel teeth.
There's also a smaller "helper" winding that helps hold the solenoid
in as long as the key is in the start position. It's this winding that
shows up as a small short while the solenoid is pulled in, as it
completes a circuit from the winding to the solenoid housing while engaged.
Mike B.
On 12/15/2012 3:42 PM, neil n wrote:
> '88, stock 2.1
>
> I somewhat cross posted here in an attempt to start a new thread.
>
> I was referring to the ICU. It is strapped to the intake snorkel. ECU
> is in stock location, no parts needed.
>
> Somewhere buried in my first thread I mentioned that my NEW remote
> starter switch tested bad.
>
> Thankfully I had the where with all to test it before using it!
>
> Neil.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 15, 2012 at 12:30 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans
> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>> what year is the van please ?
>> now that I read 'ecu cable-strapped to intake snorkle' it's sounding like a
>> 1.9 wbxr.
>> Do you need a proper ECU mounting bracket from a 1.9 wbxr vanagon ?
>>
>> I still go for the Remote Starter Switch test right away .. ( like in the
>> fist 4 minutes of 'starter-seems-dead' troubleshooting.
>> It takes the whole rest of the car out of the picture ..
>> Gets it down to just battery, starter, battery and ground cables,
>> thus eliminating and bypassing numerous possible weak areas.
>> Helps you know where to look for the real problem
>>
>> 'stubsitute and bypass' is a very useful diagnostic strategy often.
>> dig out your remote stater switch is my suggestion.
>>
>>
>> On 12/15/2012 11:31 AM, neil n wrote:
>> ..... Maybe
>> cable strapping the ICU (on its side) to the intake snorkel duct put
>> it in a poor position?
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>
> '88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
>
> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
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