Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:42:54 -0800
Reply-To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Steering. Re: P 48.14 Measurement "a"
In-Reply-To: <510EBB27.8030609@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Thanks David and John.
I apologize for not seeing how all these pieces worked! :)
Hopefully my replies didn't come off sounding like I was challenging
people. I think I'm a little "dense" with some things (nah) so wasn't
seeing all the "ins and outs" of this.
I see what's going on and as David wrote, it's a "6 of one" deal. This
is likely why the clearance at the pins is what it is. And for the
record, I replaced those "cone head" bolts with standard "Bb" bolts.
Soon I'll have this rig back on the road! I miss it! Image:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t5I6LkrwyGc/UQ7lBKoWuCI/AAAAAAAAGx0/7Dfo3-hCzTQ/s576/Whadda%2520Geek%2521.jpg
Neil.
On Sun, Feb 3, 2013 at 11:31 AM, JRodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
> I changed my worn out horn ring for a new one - and the relationship of the parts in the steering column changed and my steering wheel would not go back on properly and the two pins at the bottom of the column would not engage properly. David Beierl worked with me extensively to try and figure out what the problem was. Ultimately - it was found to be a fault in the new part.
On Sun, Feb 3, 2013 at 8:08 AM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
>> I agree, it does. I think I said that. I just don't believe it's necessary to do it that way, and doing it that way will change the spacing between the steering wheel and the plastic column shroud. Now that I've said that four times I'd better go out and refresh my memory of all the stuff I went through with John Reynolds...
>
>
> Ok, just checked and it's as I remembered -- almost. The column tube (the cadmium-plated one with mounting ears on it) is adjustable about half an inch in and out on its mounting slots. That moves the entire upper column assembly and using that you can set clearance on those pins at the bottom. However the shroud is mated to the dashboard, so moving the column tube will change its clearance at the steering wheel. So now you can loosen the ignition switch assembly clamp screw and move the assembly on the column tube, which will change the clearance between wheel and shroud -- and ALSO change clearance down at the pins. So it's six of one to half a dozen of the other. You need to have some clearance at the steering wheel shroud, and you need to have some clearance at the bottom coupling. If you had any faith in those expensive thief-proof bolts (maybe they'd die laughing?) then you'd do your adjusting at the switch assembly. Otherwise I don't see that it matters which way you do it.
--
Neil n
65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
'88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
