Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 23:59:06 -0900
Reply-To: Troy <colorworks@GCI.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Troy <colorworks@GCI.NET>
Subject: 110VAC Wire Re-Routing
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<<Hi all.
I'm in the middle of a DC powered Truckfridge install. Plan:
run new Loomex from rear 110VAC outlet to a new outlet (or power bar)
at cabinet wall behind driver seat.
The original 110VAC wire to Dometic plug on my Canadian model Westy
runs over top of the shore power cord tube. Is this routing correct?
Or should it run under this tube? It wasn't strapped where it ran
behind the cabinet so I assume that any portion of this wire passing
behind the cabinet isn't required to be strapped.
Wire routing plan: run new wire behind the cabinet, then out and up
the RH rear corner inside the cupboard. It wold be protected with PVC
conduit.
Any pointers (strapping requirements etc.) are most welcome.
Neil.>>
Hi Neil:
It's been about three years since I've been inside the little utility cabinet, but the 110 wiring for the Westy is pretty simple. I believe there is a 15 amp pushbutton circuit breaker, so that tells me they were probably using 14 gauge wire. It certainly would not hurt to use 12 gauge. If I recall correctly, VW had nothing more than Romex (vinyl covered wire) and I don't believe it was attached behind the refrigerator-- at least mine was not. There really is nothing to tug on it, so I don't see much point, but see note later in this message. I believe you could take out the bottom shelf underneath the sink, and forgo any PVC conduit. In fact, electrical code does not permit Romex inside of PVC conduit. It can potentially get too hot. If you were to run conduit, you would simply have individual strands of wire, not forgetting the ground.
Since the van is metal, you most certainly do not want to forget your ground. I'm not exactly sure I see the benefit of putting an outlet behind the driver seat, but I suspect you have your reasons. You could actually just attach a power strip there, and plug it into the existing outlet, which would be far easier. The power strips also have built-in surge protection and a breaker, so not a bad way to go in my opinion. I'm not sure if there's enough room to run the cord head through the little notch on the bottom of the sink cabinet, but I think it would fit with a little persuasion. That's how I would approach it at least.
When I put my new refrigerator in, I believe I took one of those surface mount boxes and mounted to the side of the cabinet under the sink. I did not have to add additional wiring that way. It was kind of a tight spot to work in , but I just took my time. I'm assuming you plan on just doing away with that based on your description? Anyway, do pry up the bottom shelf (under the sink) and you may be able to just run the wire under there if you don't just want to run a power strip. I believe electrical code states that there must be one attachment point within 1 foot of an outlet box fwiw.
Good luck,
Troy
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