Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 16:35:02 -0800
Reply-To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 110VAC Wire Re-Routing
In-Reply-To: <B4AA0D6D15B746AE9DF0550B60D84CB7@troya3a1e48888>
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Troy, thanks much for your insights and tips.
I have (but have not read in some time) this book:
http://www.amazon.ca/Electrical-Code-Simplified-British-Columbia/dp/0920312403
Really useful for residential. I just omitted it from my mind as I was
think "RV" though it's much the same. I bet there's mention of PVC
conduit in that book but I really appreciate the heads up!
I figured a strip or box with USB ports would be nice. Locally, this
looked good too:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BZ103050vTVL-outlet-Protector-Chargers/dp/B0017HF3XO
I'll strap the #14 Loomex (aka Romex) where I can and keep it out of harms way.
Neil.
On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 12:59 AM, Troy <colorworks@gci.net> wrote:
> Hi Neil:
>
> It's been about three years since I've been inside the little utility
> cabinet, but the 110 wiring for the Westy is pretty simple. I believe there
> is a 15 amp pushbutton circuit breaker, so that tells me they were probably
> using 14 gauge wire. It certainly would not hurt to use 12 gauge. If I
> recall correctly, VW had nothing more than Romex (vinyl covered wire) and I
> don't believe it was attached behind the refrigerator-- at least mine was
> not. There really is nothing to tug on it, so I don't see much point, but
> see note later in this message. I believe you could take out the bottom
> shelf underneath the sink, and forgo any PVC conduit. In fact, electrical
> code does not permit Romex inside of PVC conduit. It can potentially get too
> hot. If you were to run conduit, you would simply have individual strands of
> wire, not forgetting the ground.
>
> Since the van is metal, you most certainly do not want to forget your
> ground. I'm not exactly sure I see the benefit of putting an outlet behind
> the driver seat, but I suspect you have your reasons. You could actually
> just attach a power strip there, and plug it into the existing outlet, which
> would be far easier. The power strips also have built-in surge protection
> and a breaker, so not a bad way to go in my opinion. I'm not sure if there's
> enough room to run the cord head through the little notch on the bottom of
> the sink cabinet, but I think it would fit with a little persuasion. That's
> how I would approach it at least.
>
> When I put my new refrigerator in, I believe I took one of those surface
> mount boxes and mounted to the side of the cabinet under the sink. I did not
> have to add additional wiring that way. It was kind of a tight spot to work
> in , but I just took my time. I'm assuming you plan on just doing away with
> that based on your description? Anyway, do pry up the bottom shelf (under
> the sink) and you may be able to just run the wire under there if you don't
> just want to run a power strip. I believe electrical code states that there
> must be one attachment point within 1 foot of an outlet box fwiw.
--
Neil n
65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
'88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
