http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YeVG39_eGc&list=UUKXqO4D_dOQtPdZecPrf0Nw&index=18
My job took a million times longer. No need to work anywhere near the
speed he goes at! Seems he has quite a few videos.
- a short 90º nail remover-pry + hammer and pliers make quick work of
pulling staples. Not optimum as it may deform staple holes a little
but I don't think that's an issue. This is what I had on hand. All my
staples are holding.
- you don't really need an electric or air driven staple gun. Staples
not fully seated? Use a hammer. Tired hand? Take a break. The wood is
soft. 1/2" long staple minimum.
- practice corners. Get old bedsheet w.h.y. Practice corner fold. Duct
tape works in place of staple. Easier to apply remove. Experiment
cutting out excess at will. That said, it's possible you can decide on
whatever corner you want then corners are ready to be done.
- I glued the foam to wood with construction glue. (aka "Liquid Nails")
- pull fabric evenly. Even just one finger, and subsequently a staple,
pulling tighter than others, will show at fabric edge. Fabric pulled
tight will make edge of foam round, but is likely preferable overall
as fabric will be less likely to bulge after it's sat on.
- tack middle at ends then middle at sides. (long part). Work your way
out to corners.
- Use area between thumb and 1st finger to smooth fabric (draw fabric
toward corner) as you staple; you want to pull excess toward corner.
- 4" foam fits but AFAIK, OEM foam is 3" I have no idea if 4" foam
will cause too much rubbing on fabric. This would be a long term
concern at worst though. IMO.
- Mark "TOP" on back of backrest piece. Bottom piece is obvious.
- buy GOOD scissors. My new $24 Fisk are adequate, barely. And the
handle is too small for a large male hand.
- chalk best to mark fabric ???
- iron fabric
- have a flat, clean work surface
- my fabric was 56.x" wide. Even with 4" foam, I was still able to
fold fabric and staple it more or less along the OEM "line".
- there's several ways to fold corners. I chose the "hospital bed"
fold. (AFAIK, the OEM fold is called a "box corner". It is sewn on the
inside) I made corners so fold "pocket" (my term) not facing up or out
thus not as easily seen.
- Sewing the outside of this type of corner takes time. Unless you're
good at sewing the result is not that fetching. But. It will increase
corner strength and may clean up a bad corner fold. I found that a
curved needle, started at unfolder part of my "bed" corner worked
best.
- do your first corner on bench rear RH (as you face seat). Hard to
see that corner when bed installed.
- 4" foam makes the back rest "lower". Felt a bit odd at first but
I'll get used to it. I do NOT know how that affects things like a
child seat. Hey it's only 1" but....
- I purchased firm foam meant for sitting. I weigh ~ 220 lbs. It is
noticeably firmer than the other foam I could have chosen though the
former may suit some better.
- 4" foam may not be an advantage and is likely too much more $
relative to the added 1" If that makes sense.
Since I didn't pull the fabric really tight (on purpose. for aesthetic
reasons) I may try lightly clamping 2"x4" along rear of bench. Why:
this will compress foam slightly, create slack in fabric, this slack
could be pulled in and stapled at rear of bench. Compression released,
fabric will be tighter. Risk: bunching at sides.
All that typed, a pro may not charge that much if you bring in the
parts ready for foam and fabric. A local quoted me $30 a piece for
bench and back to install foam-fabric on the stripped and ready parts.
However. They completely flaked out and were never heard from again.
So you gets what you pays for??
If I remember anything else, I'll post it in this thread. Ha ha ha. Thread.
Neil.
--
Neil n
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