Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2013 15:50:56 -0700
Reply-To: "sailingfc @dslextreme.com" <sailingfc@DSLEXTREME.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "sailingfc @dslextreme.com" <sailingfc@DSLEXTREME.COM>
Subject: Re: Instrument Cluster Ribbon Repair
In-Reply-To: <CAB2RwfjJkxE3CUAU8=uvY1c_YfNhC3kY2WeWJCGvp0=wz-hf1g@mail.gmail.com>
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Neil,
I work at an electronics assembly company and we (not me) do a lot of hand
soldering. As you already know, getting the copper as clean as possible
helps the solder wick properly.
Another thing, if you didn't already do this is to tin every surface you
are going to solder to. Pre-tin the wires and pre-tin the copper traces.
It's a lot easier to apply heat to a single part than it is to multiple
parts of different thermal masses. When you actually start soldering, keep
heat on the larger thermal mass and bring it on contact to the "lighter"
part. You shouldn't have to add too much more solder since the parts are
tinned. If you are using an active flux in the solder wire, make sure you
wash off the flux after soldering, active flux will continue to etch the
copper and will corrode the copper given the right temperature and moisture
conditions.
Good luck!
-Dick Wong-
78 Scirocco
87 Vanagon Syncro
12 Golf TDI
On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 12:14 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Jarrett.
>
> My test solder went "ok" and I can improve it.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/InstrumentCluster14PinTraceRepair#
>
> And your point on securing the wires against vibration are well taken.
> I may use a VGA cable as that's what's most easily sourced locally. I
> regret recycling all my old PC stuff!
>
> And, yes. I will triple check my wire scheme before soldering. In my
> case a little trickier as I've adapted less than non stock colour
> wires to each point on the T14.
>
> Neil.
>
> On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 12:03 PM, Jarrett Anthony Kupcinski
> <kupcinski@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> > When I actually soldered the wires, I used a couple pairs of surgical
> forceps to hold the wire in place.
> >
> > Double check your wire-ups before you solder, as you'll probably not get
> a second chance to make it right.
> >
> > Also make sure any connections between new wires and the existing foil
> are mechanically sound. Soldering takes care of the electrical connections,
> but you want to make something more secure in a car that's going to be
> bouncing around on the road. Your proposal to punch a hole in the foil
> circuit might do the trick, depending on the sturdiness of the foil where
> you make the hole. I would use a drill with a very fine bit. You might
> think of using a glue gun to secure the wire after the soldering is
> complete.
> >
> > Definitely use your spare for practice and testing. That's how I figured
> out what could be done in my own case.
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>
> '88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
>
> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
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