Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 23:26:37 +1100
Reply-To: Dan Andrews <devilish.dan@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dan Andrews <devilish.dan@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: =?us-ascii?Q?Introduction_to_List_Members_-_Dan_Andrews_-_1982_Air_Cooled?=
=?us-ascii?Q?_2L_manual_T3_=28Vanagon=29_Orange_Trakka_Conversion?=
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G'day All,
Having become a new member of the list about a month ago, it dawned on me
that I never bothered to introduce myself.
This occurred as immediately after joining the list, the very kind offer of
a workshop manual for an 80-82 Vanagon came up (thanks again Brett). I
immediately put my hand up as the manual I have (Haynes) rates as bad to
downright wrong in numerous areas (just have a look at how they recommend
removal of the horn button - there's no mention of the clips which hold it
in place).
So.
My name's Dan, I live in Redfern (Sydney) Australia, and I'm new to the
list.
After owning motorbikes for 20 years (I still have a 98 Yamaha XJ 900
Diversion for my daily commute), I bought my FIRST EVER 'CAR' last September
- you'll all be pleased to know I choose a 1982 air-cooled 2L T3 (Vanagon).
It's a Trakka (Australian) factory conversion, with a fridge, stove, sink,
40L water tank, full length pop-top and of course a R&R bed.
The engine is in great condition (I have receipts for $3000 worth of recent
engine work - although most of this is for labour, an examination of the
work shows that most of the engine was replaced/serviced).
It had very little rust - both steps, a little in the driver's side door, a
patch under the passenger's side floor mat and a couple of 'dime sized'
patches in the sills - having owned many old motorbikes I'm pretty good with
rust - I've been bushing it back and treating it with Galvit (zinc paint).
Down the track I might be looking at a cut 'n' weld repair for the passenger
side step..
This is where the good news ended for my purchase. Since I knew nothing
about cars ( or buses), I took it off to a mechanic I know for a look over.
He produced the following list of troubles:
- Front upper ball joints
- Front upper control arm bushes
- CV joints (driveshafts)
- Rear wheel cylinders
- Brake light Switches
- Gear linkage bushes/boots/etc
I do most of my own work on bikes, but in many ways had to start from
scratch with this lot (as none of these parts exist on motorbikes and not
having owned a car before I've not really worked on them) - however I bought
a workshop manual and made a start - knocking over most of the list in about
6 weeks (after work). The CV joints stood out as REALLY, REALLY dirty work.
I took it back to the mechanic for the control arm bushes and the ball
joints - although I would have liked to do it all myself, the bushes have to
be pressed out/in and spot welded into place to prevent rotation - I don't
have a press or a welder, I wanted a good job with this work and time was
running short as I was due to put my 3yo daughter in the back and drive her
on a 6000km round trip from Sydney to Cairns to see the solar eclipse (an
event which can't be postponed).
Working on it was a great learning experience - the most useful thing I
found out is that the tool provided by VW to remove the wheelnuts is
hopelessly insufficient to generate the specified 170Nm of torque required.
Knowing this I could pack a tool (a 450mm break bar and 19mm socket) which
is up to the task, but I could image how frustrated I would be on the side
of the road otherwise - I'm one of those people who would find it very hard
to accept the tool provided by the Germans would not work without having had
this 'control environment' opportunity to prove it to myself....
I also chucked in some new oil, a filter, strainer gaskets and rocker cover
gaskets (I was shocked at the condition of the leaky rocker cover gaskets -
despite costing only $3 each the ones in service could have quite possibly
been the originals.
There were loads of other 'little' things I had to fix (like the water tank
which leaked, the hand pump which didn't, and the absence of coffee cup
holders). Once on the highway I also found out the stereo didn't work.
Anyway with the work done I successfully drove my from Sydney to Cairns to
see the eclipse and back again - it ran very well and we'll be doing lots
more trips together....
In Cairns I had their only VW mechanic replace the points with an electronic
ignition - the long days of driving in the tropics were really hurting the
points, and the engine started surging towards the end of the day. Much
better on the way home and a well spend $300.
I also managed to crack the master cylinder in Cairns (while trying to
tighten the brake light switches enough to stop a fluid drizzle). I
effected a temporary repair with epoxy - which worked well enough to allow
me to develop brake pressure and drive back to Sydney (you don't use the
brakes much in the country).
I pulled out the master cylinder when I returned to Sydney, only to find
that the drizzle appears to have actually coming from the vacuum servo - the
master cylinder appears to have been leaking and filling it over a long
period of time. I extracted over 500mls of old, dirty, hydrated fluid from
the servo, which (amazingly) still seemed serviceable once a new master
cylinder was installed.
Since returning I've also done a bit of a service (trying to get into a
schedule). Adjusting the brakes, replacing the plugs (I was shocked at how
far out of gap the 'old' ones were - it appears that no-one bothered to gap
them before installation), the air filter, and a good clean of the engine
bay (I consider cleaning is the best way to learn about the vehicle and find
problems - again this is probably a motorbike thing).
Unfortunately some scumbag broke my sliding door handle off two weeks ago -
I'm currently looking for a new one - cheapest option (with postage) appears
to be Go Westy - it's going to set me back about $100.
Then I'll be on to the heater - the blower switch is all melted inside and
winter is coming.
Anyway, that's a bit about me and my Transporter - I'm sure you'll hear more
in course.
-Dan