Date:         Mon, 15 Apr 2013 16:21:20 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Black wire by water tank...
Comments: To: Bryan Feddish <uprightbassghost@HOTMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BLU162-ds9EBBD5CD404CA9F131E96CECC0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 03:33 PM 4/15/2013, Bryan Feddish wrote:
>hmmmm, I was hoping it would be to my water pump somehow. Everything is
>working except the faucet at the moment.

Water pump is red from kitchen fuse to LED panel connector pin 4,
jumpered to pin 1 (because the earliest LED panels had a transistor
switch for the water pump supply) then yellow to faucet switch
connector and thence yellow to a double connector in the "secret
compartment" forward of the water tank where it plugs into water pump
blue.  Water pump brown returns to same connector where it connects
brown to ground in common with the tank sender.

Failure points are the rather simplistic faucet switch which is often
repairable (unscrew the cap and it's right there), not making full
contact on faucet connector/pump connector (either by not plugging in
far enough, or by having the terminals miss each other when plugging
in -- look carefully through clear cover), and the pump itself.

Voltage testing, back-probe the pump connector for +12 on the blue
wire and ground on the brown one (faucet switch on of course).  If
both are +12 then bad ground.  If no +12, check the yellow side.  If
no +12 there, pop the top of the faucet and look for +12 on one pin,
check for broken wire and repair if needed.

If no +12 at faucet, or if present but jumpering across the switch
doesn't make the pump run, basically what's left is the faucet
connector behind the silverware drawer.

If the pump connector is screwed to the bulkhead, easier to work with
if you take it off the wall first IIRC.

Yrs,
d