Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 08:33:07 -0400
Reply-To: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Mexico trip report
In-Reply-To: <BLU173-W27EB8CB419AC8A2737B4DCCEC30@phx.gbl>
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Thanks for sharing! We are thinking about doing a trip next fall from the
US to Belize via Mission Texas. It would be epic! I have been hearing
that as long as you stay to the main roads and don't do something stupid
that you wouldn't normally do here in the US, that Mexico is pretty safe to
drive through. Just wish I knew Spanish.
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 2:52 AM, John King <johnki@hotmail.com> wrote:
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> My wife, Liz, and I have owned our '87 Vanagon for a little over 3 years
> now. I've been reading the emails from this group for most of that time.
> Apart from my gathering much useful technical information, we have enjoyed
> reading the trip reports. So, after returning from a 6 week road trip down
> the west coast of mainland Mexico, Liz (the writer in our family) wrote up
> the following report:
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> 4 years ago we were on a fly in vacation to Sayulita, a little beach town
> just north of Puerto Vallarta, and had a chance encounter the led us to
> this posting...
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> We met a couple from Oregon who had driven down with their pop-top tent
> trailer and instantly knew "we want to do that!" Came home, bought a
> pop-top tent trailer... tried to love it but failed to bond. Sold the
> trailer and caught the Vanagon virus... and loved it ever since. After much
> time spent sorting out our lives and our Vanagon, this last Feb. 20 we
> headed out in our 1987 Syncro with Westy top transplant, named Ferd (after
> the kid's book Ferdinand the Bull)...accompanied by our 2 old and decaying
> (read stinky) lady black lab dogs. We had originally planned to accompany
> Mark Drillock and his group Vanagon trip down Baja then continuing on to
> the ferry over to mainland MX, but dogs became a complication, so we
> decided to strike out on our own. Next year Mark! We will find a place here
> for the dogs... Anyway... Tacoma WA to Sayulita...about 2600 miles one way.
> We were meeting friends in Sayulita on the 15th of March which gave us
> about 3 weeks to make the 6 day journey. Regarding Vanagon trips: I have
> read the phrase "just enough drama to make the trip interesting..." and it
> was only a matter of miles...like 20...before we had our first drama. The
> water temp as reported by the Scangauge (Ferd has a 2.5 Subie with OBD 2
> connector) was reading way high...220 and creeping higher. WHAT? We were
> not even a half hour from home! It hovered around 225 at highest and would
> then back off a bit...we held our breath and drove on trying to get to
> warmer/dryer weather before changing the thermostat. For 2 days this went
> on...temp creeping up but never quite blowing Ferd up...and in time, just
> cured itself. Yeah! Hopefully just a sticky thermostat and not some
> blockage that moved elsewhere to trouble us later.
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> We went down on 101 along the Oregon coast, camping the first night in the
> rain. First night out, who cares! We were on vacation and all was good.
> Along the coast one morning Ferd was making a new sound...the question
> "What is that sound?" became a constant refrain from each of us over the
> trip. This time it seemed to be coming from the top. We pulled over,
> checked it out and sheepishly snapped the top down. SOMEONE had not quite
> gotten the latch engaged and the top was just thinking about being blown
> upward as we motored down the road. Tragedy averted. Continued down the
> coast camping, dang...it was cold! Thinking about warm nights in Mexico, we
> had not brought warm enough bedding, and after spending one night in the
> redwoods sleeping in full hat, gloves, woolies and down parka under our
> sorry comforter....we realized we had to make an adjustment. Plugging in
> became a thought...we had brought a little electric space heater....where
> to plug in? Looking at KOA/RV parks became a new adventure and while I
> NEVER thought myself an RV or KOA kinda girl...more the pit toilet
> type...we went for it..... spent a great night in a KOA in the Healdsburg,
> CA area...hot tub under a full moon. Plotting our route became each
> morning's exercise... well, we had to camp where no Ferd camper has camped
> before. Like the KOA in Vegas on the strip....just behind Circus Circus.
> Not bad really, nice spot of dead grass right next to Ferd for the girl
> dogs to pee on, and we walked down the strip (once is enough) and saw the
> Beatles LOVE show. Surreal camping! One of the dogs peed on her bed just to
> agree with us I think...GET US OUT OF HERE! A long stretch of highway
> between Vegas and Phoenix had huge tumble weeds on either side....like the
> size of a fridgerator...and they would periodically blow across the road
> behind us, or way out in front. One particular weed had his way with
> us...rolling along to pass before Ferd's front INCHES from us as I cruised
> about 65 mph...kinda liquefied my innards to see something that big roll
> into my path. We go to the border after spending 8 nights on the road,
> camping all but one night when we stayed with friends in Phoenix. We tended
> to do 5ish hour drive days...no hurry. Enjoyed driving through Kings Canyon
> and Sequoia national parks, lovely camp spot along Lake Havasu...it was all
> good. We had purchased Mexican car insurance that took effect March 1st, so
> the night of Feb. 28th we settled in at our first hotel of the trip in
> Nogales, AZ, ready to cross the border the next am. We had 15 days to get
> to Sayulita, normally about a 3 day drive, so taking our time was the order
> of business....Hit the crossing at 6:20 am in the 29 degree cold air! It
> took us about 45 minutes and there were no lines at all. Paid, stamped,
> stickered and we were on our way in the creeping dawn, ready to tackle the
> Mexican roads. It was a bit hairy at first...trying to read the Church's
> Mexican Camping guidebook route....trying to read the Mexican road
> signs....trying to figure out where the lanes were...watching our speed
> ever so closely so not to be stopped, horror of horrors. As the day got
> brighter and we hit Hermosillo....it got a bit tense in the city driving
> with added sounds and chaos...but we kept cool and made it through without
> a miss, stopping at a big LEYS grocery to load up on food and beverages.
> First night camping at Islandia Trailer Park in Bahia de Kino. Nice place
> within easy walking distance to the fishing village of Viejo (old) Kino.
> Quiet spot, pulled up right to the beach...spent 2 nights. Sighs and
> smiles....we were camping in Mexico! Next stop was Guaymas/San Carlos at
> the Totonaka RV Park. A big place with some giant motorhomes. They gave us
> a nice spot with shade for the old dogs who were not quite ready for the
> instant hot weather we had transported them to. The park also gives you one
> of those coupons for a free margarita at the restaurant next door...and one
> (complimentary size) drink was just not enough, but the second
> (non-complimentary size) one was as big as my head and well...let's just
> say it was a long night and an even longer next day....but Tequila is still
> a good friend. We just respect each other. Headed to Huatabampito
> next...crossing over inland roads Ferd's outdoor air temp registered 101
> degrees at one point...and we do not have working air conditioning and so
> the wind tunnel also known as Ferd zoomed along, all windows open, dog
> tongues panting, us either silent or shouting, truly shouting, at each
> other just to be heard. It was tiring and regrets about NOT spending money
> to fix that air conditioning were strong. About this time the last of the
> grease on the newish, urethane bushings must have melted away. Could they
> squeak any louder? Folks on the street actually turned and looked to see
> what all the racket was, and this is in Mexico! It was kinda embarrassing.
> John had tools along to disassemble and regrease them, but didn't really
> want to tackle it on the road since it was not in danger of breaking, just
> really annoying. Instead, he bought a can of WD-40 and discovered that each
> application stopped the squeaking for about 3 - 5 minutes of driving.
> Huatabampito...beautifully barren. No town, just some Mexican vacation
> homes and a big, empty beach. The economy, gas prices and fear of Mexican
> narcos has seemingly slashed the gringo RV camping in Mexico. Of the 36
> spots at El Mirador....there was only one other vehicle. We pulled right up
> to the beach's edge and spent 3 quiet, lovely nights. Ate at the restaurant
> there one night, but otherwise camp cooked. There is nothing like cooking
> bacon barefoot in the sand, breathing salt air, and staring out over the
> ocean.
> On to Alamos, a wonderful colonial town founded in the 1680's. It is up in
> the mountains a bit and a nice change from the beach. I loved the town and
> its vibe...could see spending serious time here. We found a guy named Kelly
> roasting coffee at the Colonial Hotel. His methods were pure science and
> his product was magically perfect. I bought a kilo and am still brewing my
> cup with those grounds as of this morning. Two nights spent at Rancho
> Acosta...fairly quiet except for the kid group one evening, who must have
> been celebrating a birthday or something...they were fun to watch. We ate
> street tacos on the square and hiked up to the town overlook. I had one
> heart attack...happened to look up during my shower and quickly counted
> FIVE SPIDERS the size of the palm of my hand...did a OMG breath, started
> even, calming breathing and just did not look up again. I hate spiders.
>
> Next stop Celestino Gasca at the Celestino RV Resort. Resort is such a
> funny word...conjures up such tropical, sunny, happy, beachy scenes. This
> place was again, almost empty. Long empty beach, not an umbrella in
> sight..and windy to blow you right outa your car. We camped here one night
> and while the camp site was ok...the wind was fierce, so we kept heading
> south to the San Blas area... And stayed at Paraiso Miramar....a spot with
> the loveliest, big, old tree just on the edge of a large lawn atop the bank
> above the beach. Again...empty of campers. Where are all the people? We
> knew Easter was coming...and we had been hearing rumors...yes, places were
> empty of travelers from out of the country... yet every place we had been
> seemed to be preparing for some big influx of folk...painting was being
> done...roofing re-thatched. Yup...Semana Santa, the week prior to Easter
> was at the month's end and apparently it was when every Mexican person took
> the week off and schools were out and they all went to the beach.
> Hmmmm...never occurred to us we would be at the beach during the country's
> biggest beach party of the year. Oh boy.
> We got to Sayulita 2 days early on the 13th and settled into the Sayulita
> Trailer Park and Bungelows...camping spot #6 to wait for our friends Puerto
> Vallarta airport arrival on the 15th. We were in the very trailer park the
> folks we met 4 years earlier had been in when we met them and they set this
> dream in motion. Yee ha! We were so proud! and the dogs had lived...I had
> bet money on Frieda (who turns 15 in May) not living through the trip...but
> there she was. It was HOT in Sayulita...and our little camping spot did not
> catch much breeze...and while we had great fun with our friends, I missed
> the road and the adventure of the unknown. And honestly, I was feeling a
> bit cramped. I love Ferd for a road trip...but to spend more than about 3
> nights in one place...I need a bit more room. One of the smart things we
> planned for was the dogs sleeping space. Early in the trip they slept (and
> scratched and burped and farted) In the van with us. It was tight...but we
> managed. In the warmer climates we set up a cheap backpacking tent outside
> of the van. It was their kennel..and it gave us a daytime place to put them
> for their frequent naps and night time place for them to sleep...best 50
> bucks spent. They are too old and frail to push their way out of even a
> cheap tent. Nearing the end of our two weeks in Sayulita...our group was
> getting restless. A virus had hit and most of us took turns being sick. The
> beach and town were filling up as the holiday weekend neared...and so we
> all just left early. Friends flew out and we took off on the 27th and
> headed north at break neck speeds...made it to the border in 3 days and
> while we thought we were nuts to show up at the border on Friday evening of
> Easter weekend...there was ONE car in front of us and we were through in
> minutes and back at that Nogales AZ hotel where I took one fantastic
> shower. From there we made tracks home...hoteling it the entire way (2 more
> nights). Ferd did his usual drama...we have an engine cut out problem that
> had occurred from time to time at home and a couple of times earlier on the
> trip down...but now seemed to be the chosen drama of the day. On our last
> day's drive the engine momentarily cut out 15 times...and cruising at
> 70mph...it is a bit disconcerting. Both of us kept yelling at Ferd that we
> had to make it home and then he could just let go. We were wondering if
> both Ferd and the dogs would just expire once we hit our driveway. But they
> all lived. And lived well....what an adventure! What fun it was. And the
> truth is, if we had traveled in some moterhomemothership type of
> vehicle...it would have just been a plain trip. No drama. But in this
> treasured van, this van with more personality that a lot of people I
> know....the trip took on a quality that is untouchable. I loved it. I am
> a road trip warrior girl....as long as my handy and ever positive (that
> noise..? it is nothing to worry about) husband is along for the ride. We
> will be doing Glacier and the Canyonlands area this Sept....and looking for
> dog care before we leave!
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