Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 12:08:36 -0400
Reply-To: Mike B <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike B <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
In-Reply-To: <005601ce433f$412cd1a0$c38674e0$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
I would find a way to hang the caliper with some bailing wire up and out
of the way, i wouldn't remove it.
Mike B.
On 4/27/2013 8:03 AM, Dan Andrews wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
>
> According to the manual, I have to remove the calliper.
>
> To remove the calliper, I have to:
> i) Remove the pads (tick)
> ii) Remove the bracket which holds the brake cable in place (which is
> affixed to the vehicle using the big ball joint bolt).
>
> It seems to make sense when I look at it.
>
> Do you have another plan?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dennis Haynes
> Sent: Saturday, 27 April 2013 9:34 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>
> There is absolutely no reason to disconnect the upper ball joint to service
> a wheel bearing unless you are working on a Syncro.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dan Andrews
> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:34 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> For some time now, I’ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I drive
> my 1982 T3.
>
>
>
> It’s usually only noticeable when I’m coasting, and gets louder as I
> decelerate harder.
>
>
>
> It’s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
>
>
>
> This being my first ‘car’ (I’ve always owned bikes), I have a lot of
> trouble hearing where things are coming from – however after a few months of
> indecision I decided that it’s the front left wheel bearing, because:
>
> (i) It sounds like that’s where it’s coming from;
>
> (ii) It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
>
> (iii) As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of the
> vehicle – it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder then;
>
> (iv) I don’t believe I would hear it if it was coming from the
> rear of the vehicle.
>
>
>
> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can’t notice any
> click/rough spot/defect – however I consider that this is simply because I’m
> not replicating the load conditions – no weight, no speed.
>
>
>
> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
> doing).
>
>
>
> Sadly, I didn’t get far.
>
>
>
> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which attaches
> the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
> retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake calliper.
>
>
>
> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can’t get a break
> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
>
>
>
> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a semi-circle,
> I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath (and
> thread it through the semi-circle). I tried three different length of ½”
> drive extender bar with no luck…
>
>
>
> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I’ve changed the
> bearing I’m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs – and I really
> don’t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.
>
>
>
> I know it can’t be as hard as I’m making it – I simply don’t have the
> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
>
>
>
> I thought I should ask the list for help.
>
>
>
> (Thank you)
>
>
>
> -Dan
>
>
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