Date:         Wed, 24 Apr 2013 15:44:21 -0400
Reply-To:     forum email <nij.forum@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         forum email <nij.forum@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: clock in diesel dash
Comments: To: Mike Miller <mwmiller6@att.net>
In-Reply-To:  <CA+LC96OJf2Hq6ze4CnuaKr-pTjDM6oyX64Nx5ys6yrJSCyaEDw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Sorry for the poor spelling and grammer and over use of periods and
exclamaion points. One day I will get the hang of phone text (and typing).


On Wed, Apr 24, 2013 at 3:41 PM, forum email <nij.forum@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi this may ne a real dumb question and I apologise in advance if it is!.
> Is there a difference between a Diesel cluster clock and a non diesel
> cluster clock. If the answer is yes ignore rest of email IF it is no read
> on. I have a clock I have just dismantled and it only has 12hr no mention
> of 24 anywhere. If ther are the same would you be willing to trade? I can
> send you mine you can replace yours and then you can test it all works if
> you are happy you can send me the 24hr board.
>
> Nij
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 24, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Mike Miller <mwmiller6@att.net> wrote:
>
>> Very easy for you, my brother and Nelson Pass. For me going to europe is
>> easier…driving.
>>
>> Thanks,'
>>
>>
>> Mike from Cotati not Fresno no matter what that angled guy from South San
>> Francisco says
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 24, 2013, at 11:53 AM, David Beierl wrote:
>>
>> > At 11:56 AM 4/24/2013, Mike Miller wrote:
>> >> I have a diesel dash pod and the time is shown in the 24 hour clock
>> mode. How
>> >> does one change this to 12 hr clock mode?
>> >
>> > It's very easy.  Simply go to Europe where the entire population uses
>> > 24-hour time and it will switch by itself. ;-)
>> >
>> > Seriously, 24-hour time is better.
>> >
>> > Ok, if you insist...you have to remove and disassemble the clock to
>> > get to the back of the circuit board.  Use a sharp tool (not a #11
>> > blade, the end is too fragile) to cut the trace between the two pads
>> > marked 24, and make a solder bridge or solder a wire across the pair
>> > marked 12.  It's not hard but you have to be reasonably careful with
>> > all parts of the job.
>> >
>> > There may be zero, one or two bits of loose polarizing film in the
>> > LCD assembly.  If so, they have to be lined up correctly when
>> > reassembling.  You must be able to see through both at once.  If you
>> > get it backwards you'll end up with a black screen with clear numbers
>> > instead of the other way around.
>> >
>> > Yours,
>> > David
>>
>
>