Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 12:04:09 +0000
Reply-To: J Stewart <fonman4277@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: J Stewart <fonman4277@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
In-Reply-To: <002201ce4311$2bb52580$831f7080$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Just out of curiosity, what type of wheels/wheel covers do you have? I have heard wheel covers make that same type of sound, even chrome trim rings. You may not have a problem at all. Jeff Stewart ----- Original Message -----
> Hi All,
>
> For some time now, I’ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I
> drive
> my 1982 T3.
>
> It’s usually only noticeable when I’m coasting, and gets louder as I
> decelerate harder.
>
> It’s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
>
> This being my first ‘car’ (I’ve always owned bikes), I have a lot of
> trouble hearing where things are coming from – however after a few
> months of
> indecision I decided that it’s the front left wheel bearing, because:
> (i) It sounds like that’s where it’s coming from;
> (ii) It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of
> the
> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
> (iii) As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front
> of the
> vehicle – it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder
> then;
> (iv) I don’t believe I would hear it if it was coming
> from the
> rear of the vehicle.
>
> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can’t notice any
> click/rough spot/defect – however I consider that this is simply
> because I’m
> not replicating the load conditions – no weight, no speed.
>
> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
> doing).
>
> Sadly, I didn’t get far.
>
> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which
> attaches
> the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
> retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake
> calliper.
>
> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can’t get a break
> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
>
> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a
> semi-circle,
> I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath
> (and
> thread it through the semi-circle). I tried three different length of
> ½”
> drive extender bar with no luck…
>
> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I’ve changed the
> bearing I’m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs – and I
> really
> don’t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.
>
> I know it can’t be as hard as I’m making it – I simply don’t have the
> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
>
> I thought I should ask the list for help.
>
> (Thank you)
>
> -Dan
>
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