Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 18:52:00 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
In-Reply-To: <CA+pRBNDfWPtTWQAetN7q8xKX68Tcr+YV7zB7ThkxVHaQNaNtEQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Thank you for the plug but except for short answers I suck at writing. Now
if a group would like to get together for some fun and training that I would
be up for.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Dan Lamb
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 9:49 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
Hi Dan,
The speedo is driven from the left front hub. Sometimes there are clearance
issues with the outer hubcap, or could be dry or broken cable. Also, I
wouldn't trust the Haynes manual too far. Now if we could get Dennis to
write a manual, then we would have a really good Haynes manual, I think:).
Dan Lamb
On Friday, April 26, 2013, Dan Andrews wrote:
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> For some time now, I’ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I
> drive my 1982 T3.
>
>
>
> It’s usually only noticeable when I’m coasting, and gets louder as I
> decelerate harder.
>
>
>
> It’s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
>
>
>
> This being my first ‘car’ (I’ve always owned bikes), I have a lot of
> trouble hearing where things are coming from – however after a few
> months of indecision I decided that it’s the front left wheel bearing,
> because:
>
> (i) It sounds like that’s where it’s coming from;
>
> (ii) It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
>
> (iii) As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of
> the
> vehicle – it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder
> then;e dry
>
> (iv) I don’t believe I would hear it if it was coming from
the
> rear of the vehicle.
>
>
>
> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can’t notice any
> click/rough spot/defect – however I consider that this is simply
> because I’m not replicating the load conditions – no weight, no speed.
>
>
>
> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
> doing).
>
>
>
> Sadly, I didn’t get far.
>
>
>
> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which
> attaches the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the
> brake house retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake
calliper.
>
>
>
> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can’t get a break
> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
>
>
>
> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a
> semi-circle, I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in
> from underneath (and thread it through the semi-circle). I tried
> three different length of ½”
> drive extender bar with no luck…
>
>
>
> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I’ve changed the
> bearing I’m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs – and I
> really don’t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring
spanner.
>
>
>
> I know it can’t be as hard as I’m making it – I simply don’t have the
> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
>
>
>
> I thought I should ask the list for help.
>
>
>
> (Thank you)
>
>
>
> -Dan
>
>
>
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