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Date:         Wed, 1 May 2013 08:14:13 -0500
Reply-To:     JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY152-ds1FBA7019930BF3E90019BA0B00@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Dennis,

You need a Ghost Writer to simply assemble your chicken scratch notes into a coherent tech book. Just review the draft before publication. Or better yet - talk into a recorder and have your recordings transcribed. That would work!

Put me on the list for an autographed edition of the new Haynes Manual!!!!

John

On 4/27/2013 5:52 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote: > Thank you for the plug but except for short answers I suck at writing. Now > if a group would like to get together for some fun and training that I would > be up for. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > Dan Lamb > Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 9:49 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how? > > Hi Dan, > > The speedo is driven from the left front hub. Sometimes there are clearance > issues with the outer hubcap, or could be dry or broken cable. Also, I > wouldn't trust the Haynes manual too far. Now if we could get Dennis to > write a manual, then we would have a really good Haynes manual, I think:). > > Dan Lamb > > On Friday, April 26, 2013, Dan Andrews wrote: > >> Hi All, >> >> >> >> For some time now, I’ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I >> drive my 1982 T3. >> >> >> >> It’s usually only noticeable when I’m coasting, and gets louder as I >> decelerate harder. >> >> >> >> It’s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does. >> >> >> >> This being my first ‘car’ (I’ve always owned bikes), I have a lot of >> trouble hearing where things are coming from – however after a few >> months of indecision I decided that it’s the front left wheel bearing, >> because: >> >> (i) It sounds like that’s where it’s coming from; >> >> (ii) It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the >> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road); >> >> (iii) As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of >> the >> vehicle – it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder >> then;e dry >> >> (iv) I don’t believe I would hear it if it was coming from > the >> rear of the vehicle. >> >> >> >> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can’t notice any >> click/rough spot/defect – however I consider that this is simply >> because I’m not replicating the load conditions – no weight, no speed. >> >> >> >> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by >> doing). >> >> >> >> Sadly, I didn’t get far. >> >> >> >> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which >> attaches the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the >> brake house retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake > calliper. >> >> >> >> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can’t get a break >> bar/ratchet onto the socket. >> >> >> >> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a >> semi-circle, I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in >> from underneath (and thread it through the semi-circle). I tried >> three different length of ½” >> drive extender bar with no luck… >> >> >> >> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I’ve changed the >> bearing I’m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs – and I >> really don’t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring > spanner. >> >> >> >> I know it can’t be as hard as I’m making it – I simply don’t have the >> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual). >> >> >> >> I thought I should ask the list for help. >> >> >> >> (Thank you) >> >> >> >> -Dan >> >> >> >


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