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Date:         Tue, 14 May 2013 12:20:41 -0400
Reply-To:     frankgrun@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Frank Grunthaner <frankgrun@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 2.0L I4 Opportunities
Comments: To: snuggle.pants@hotmail.com
In-Reply-To:  <BLU404-EAS147166B6762F01A523F2855F8A10@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My comment about 3A availability as compared to the ABA was meant to have some of the character of "tongue in cheek" about it. Clearly, the number of these blocks out in the yards is minuscule relative to dominate ABA, however they are "readily sourced". My source, after a check of the local yards, is always Car-Part.com. Having just checked, there are about 120 3A complete engines available. I paid $300 for mine some years ago.

As to the miles on the engine, I have never trusted the salvage yard numbers and always take the time to do a teardown while I have the engine on the stand. That always includes a head cleanup with valve refacing and trueing the head surface at a reputable shop. Full bearing and piston ring replacement. This immediately gives one a view of the crank journals and the cam supporting bed. I always use the total circle type of rings from Perfect circle. I also hone the cylinders and would rebore if the top notch on the cylinder is at all significant. I've had my hands on two 3A blocks, one with 40,000+ miles and the other with 171,000 miles. Couldn't measure the deck notch on either. Glaze busting just readies the cylinder for rapid ring seating. You want the whole engine because of the different distributor sizes and the different crankcase ventilation approaches. Intake and exhaust manifolds as well. The cranks on these engines are super tough and I've not encountered (limited sample) anything other than a mirror finish at the stock dimension. Going over the engine to this degree is just a necessary evil when you consider the accessibility before you mount it in the beast. I also add a windage try s well and port it (as described in the archives) to match the 55 degree install. West Coast shipping runs around 1-200 dollars, so you should be able to get one of these for the neighborhood of $500. One friend of mine picked up two 3A engines in the Pick-N-Pull yards in LA for $150, with all the goodies.

I particularly shied away from the more complex Motronic engine management system because of immobilizer and OB2 issues. Throwing out the CIS system was an immediate and foregone conclusion. Although there are methods for mounting these and other engines at the donor car's original angle, I wanted the full utility of a flush engine compartment install.

The argument about rod length to bore size has festered long and hard in the swapping community. I generally go by Smokey Yurnik's opinions on engine design. He has often held that proper cam profiling can overcome any modest difference. I believe that much of the measured torque differences between the factory setup of the 3A and the ABA can be attributed to the cross-flow head. I typically use an adjustable cam gear to dial in my needed torque profile. A few runs with the iPhone, a Road Dyno app and a straight, narrow and deserted highway and you can see a significant tailoring of the engine performance to your vehicle characteristics (weight, gearing and tire size, etc.).

In my experience, parts can be sourced from the motherland, but few advantages exist, other than availability and that is trumped by shipping costs. Of course, my luggage at the Customs checkpoint often reeks of a variety of petroleum base products! For the TDi mounting in the Vanagon, these Euro components can really improve the inline install.

Just wanted to bring this approach to general attention. As many of us know, the Scientific Literature for most of today's students begins in 1985 with the advent of searchable databases! The archives contain a metric ton of information on the subject.

Frank Grunthaner

-----Original Message----- From: David Kurimski <snuggle.pants@hotmail.com> To: frankgrun <frankgrun@AOL.COM> Cc: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Tue, May 14, 2013 4:11 am Subject: Re: 2.0L I4 Opportunities

As an individual who has done 6 inline conversions I agree that there is a certain amount of pride to be taken in knowing your auto intimately, after all the owner is responsible for repairs in any case. I have not seen the elusive A3 engine in the recycle yards but have completed the ABA swap into my Westy,"Moby Dick" who was practically the end of me.

Cheers to the long life of these mythical monsters!

David's electronic Zapper Collar

On May 14, 2013, at 5:28 AM, "Frank Grunthaner" <frankgrun@AOL.COM> wrote:

> I have enjoyed lurking and reading this evolving discussion of I4 conversion experiences devoted to re-invigorate these intriguing transportation systems. I'm moderately concerned about the ABA discussion in that it could lead to the impression that a 2.0L VW I4 conversion is beyond the resources of the average backyard Vanagon mechanical enthusiast. The most difficult aspect of the ABA Vanagon conversion, in my opinion, is the 55 degree modification of the oil pan for a clean install. The basic 1.8L VW I4 conversion is really straightforward using Vanagon Diesel components and quite viable with the Vanagon Diesel transmission as well. The issue of vibration is easily handled with hydraulic mounts and the muffler/exhaust system is readily solved with the dual port manifold and flexible coupling of the GTi. I have detailed this information and my engineering details in several verbose missives in the archives of this list. Much of this information has been retained on Alistair Bell's comprehensive website. > > I must agree with several listees here that the best I4 conversion is the 2.0L I4, but the ABA version is unnecessarily complex and costly. The most cost effective version, and arguably the most straightforward for the shadetree mechanic uses the Audi 3A engine, together with Diesel Vanagon oil pan, mounting cradle, Digifant II electronics and the Diesel bell housing. The most fun would result if the diesel transmission was included. The Audi 3A is clearly an engine with strong VW heritage and offers the same valve cover deck height as the 1.8L VW I4 series. The 3A head has a significantly upgraded intake manifold, injection port and intake port configuration. In the archives, I have given the details of a simple fuel distribution rail that enables the use of the Digifant II injectors. The 49-state exhaust manifold outflows any 1.8 or 2.0L VW equivalent. The engine torque curve is readily adjusted to the driving requirements of the vehicle and its rpm range easily supports seriously dangerous velocities even when coupled to the diesel Vanagon transmission. The engine is also readily available at a cost equivalent to the 1.8L RV unit. Of course, the diesel oil pan and bell housing are a direct bolt-on. > > If one requires a more aggressive vigor for your Vanagon experience, I have also detailed the modification of the 3A engine to add turbocharging. The engine came from the factory with piston cooling jets and several of the engineering improvements that would later appear in the 1.8T VW engine. In the interests of not overstressing the engine, I designed a modest pressure turbo system that took the intake pressure up to a maximum of 4 psi. To integrate the ignition and ECU management with the turbocharger, I adapted the SAAB APC turbo engine management system dynamically controlling timing, boost, fuel injection and exhaust gas temperature. Fuel economy ranged from 17 to 22 mpg depending on my incremental excitability. The mountain climbing ability of my fully loaded Westfalia was stimulating. For the turbo 3A system, I included a liquid to air intercooler, cool air intake, oil to air cooling, ran power steering and air conditioning together with a 160 amp alternator and a stereo system that markedly enhanced the handling of the beast. > > I fully understand that there are commercial ventures that can supply a significant number of conversion alternatives. However, to my perspective, commercially implemented conversions are unwise. With the possible exception of the Bostig system, there are a myriad of details for the implementation that require a personal solution. I think its prudent for the owner/operator to be fully cognizant of those solutions for the inevitably required incremental re-engineering. This is most readily accomplished when you have done it yourself. Then too, there is that sense of accomplishment as you motor the finished labor into the sunset! On the negative side, there is the expense and mass of the two or more Bentleys. > > My two cents. > > Frank Grunthaner > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM> > To: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Mon, May 13, 2013 9:59 am > Subject: Re: ABA into 1.9 Vanagon was coolant overflow fears and thoughts > > > Small boat rigging is good for that stuff...like maybe.. > http://www.unicornstainless.com/WireRope.html > > My throttle cable is from a bicycle brake cable...the end was just right to > go into my throttlebody linkage on the 1.8 head.... > > > On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 8:29 AM, Jim Arnott <jrasite@eoni.com> wrote: > >> Throttle cable. I spend 3 hours searching the Internet looking for >> throttle cable material before I stumbled on a Chevy engine swap site that >> mentioned Home Depot. 1/16” diameter, 9 strand twisted into one cable, itty >> bitty wire rope. Stranded wire comes in two configurations. 1x9 & 7x7 IIRC. >> 1x9 is what you want. Home Depot has it. $0.27/ft. >> >> Jim >> >> From: Larry Alofs >> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:14 AM >> To: Jim Arnott >> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com >> Subject: Re: ABA into 1.9 Vanagon was coolant overflow fears and thoughts >> >> ?? >> 20' of 1/16" 1x9 galvanized wire from Home Depot >> ?? >> >> >> On Sun, May 12, 2013 at 11:17 PM, Jim Arnott <jrasite@eoni.com> wrote: >> >> On May 12, 2013, at 5:28 PM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: >> >> >> And you can add a turbo too! The folks at FAS have an elegant 2.0 >> package, >> but it's way too expensive for me. Where is the documentation, >> parts, etc. >> for a junkyard DIY ABA engine conversion? I don't want to fabricate >> everything myself and figure out the wiring, plumbing, mounts, >> exhaust, etc. >> >> >> It ain't a kit. As the late Bob Hoover said, YOU are the mechanic in >> charge. >> >> Photos: >> >> Work in Progress: http://tinyurl.com/czp7tvl (Note: The orange bus in >> the first couple pics was the model. That is an ABA into an '82 diesel) >> Finished product: http://tinyurl.com/bvrra5g >> >> Parts: >> >> '96 92k mile ABA complete from a Trek Jetta that was junked due to >> immobilizer problems >> Engine wiring harness from same '96 Trek Jetta >> ECU >> alternator >> hoses and coolant reservoir >> timing belt & tensioner >> windage tray >> 6" of the exhaust header pipe from the donor >> >> '83 Diesel: >> carrier bars >> engine mounts >> motor mounts >> oil pan >> oil pickup >> oil filler >> dipstick & tube >> exhaust mounts >> bell housing >> bell housing dust shield >> bell housing to engine attachment bolts >> transmission input shaft seal >> either a diesel input shaft or shorten wasserboxer shaft 10 mm >> transmission to bell housing gasket >> flywheel >> clutch & pressure plate >> throwout bearing >> starter >> engine compartment cooling hoses >> thermostat housing >> steel engine cover >> >> '86+ 2.1 Vanagon: >> intake snorkel >> >> '98 VR6 Passat >> water pump pulley >> DLC & a piece of the harness (about 6" long) >> >> ''98 Ford Escort Zetec >> Air cleaner >> >> 16" 2 3/4" aluminum irrigation pipe >> Intake hose from some junkyard Audi that was the right shape. >> Miscellaneous cooling hoses from NAPA. (numbers to come) >> >> 20' of 1/16" 1x9 galvanized wire from Home Depot >> 20x1032 serpentine belt (no A/C, no PS.) >> 120amp Cole-Hersee continuous duty relay for the house batteries. >> >> Exhaust system: >> custom fabrication >> 34" 1.75 dia secondary pipes dumping into a 2.5" collector to a OBD II >> extra load universal cat to a 700 oval 3 pass muffler and 3 hours of >> labor. >> >> There are probably additional parts/pieces, but that'll get the engine >> in the hole. The most challenging part of the whole process was >> marrying the DigiJet Vanagon to the ABA's Motronic engine management >> system. You only need three wires: Power, switched power and ground. >> Getting those three wires hooked up to the the right places took an >> ASE master technician/mechanic. After he's recovered a bit, I'll get >> the documentation. >> >> The only downside to this conversion is now I have to haul 2 Bentleys >> around. Vanagon & Jetta. Small price to pay. It has transformed my >> Adventurewagen into a real car. And I picked up 3 mpg as well. >> >> Jim > >


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