Date:         Tue, 4 Jun 2013 16:26:41 -0400
Reply-To:     Stuart Fedak <ve3smf@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart Fedak <ve3smf@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Small Rust Areas.
In-Reply-To:  <CAEwp_cQgiHio-G9Sqc0WJUjS+Rdr-3_jrGAto=rHvqnMNn106w@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

A few years back, I took an evening auto body course at the local community college.  The instructor equated rust areas with cancer.  The only cure was surgical removal.  We were taught to cut out until we were into nice shiny steel.  Then butt weld in new steel.  No overlap welding, no rivets.  On Miller welding web pages are some good DVD on restoration and custom manufacturing.  I also ordered a DVD from the UK on restoration techniques.  As far as the steel, I was taught to use steel that was primed using paint that can be welded. It has a higher zinc content and will conduct.  Most of my hobby welding is with MIG, butt welds and using brass backup plates to absorb heat.  Lots of use of compressed air to cool between spot welds to prevent warping.  I find I can do as good or better than a bodywork shop, as I can take as much time as I want to do a good job.  Most body work shops, time is money, so Bondo is often the method of choice.  

What became clear to me in the three course that I took, preparation and cutting until you are into good steel is the key.  Most panel sections can be fabricated, or replacement panels used.  

As far as I am concerned, the only cure for rust cancer is cut and replace.  Everything else is just palliative care.  The instructor said that after doing a proper job, the next step is long term protection, use of automotive sealant, correct primer and paint.  For those in salt moisture areas, one needs dry storage, pressure washing the areas prone to rust, and using rust protection.  

Depending on your personal circumstance, and budget, you may have to do the best that you can.  I found that my best solution was to invest in myself, take Community college evening classes such as gas/arc welding, MIG welding, body shop restoration, prep and surface prep/painting, machine shop lathe/milling.  I now have the skills to do most of my own work.  I have also been working on restoration of a few Canadian military vehicles (originally designed by VW).  As others have said, when you get into these older vehicles, it is a lifestyle choice.  You either have to have deep pockets, or plan to learn a lot of new skills and do the work on your own.  You also have to learn how to source parts, find out what are consumable items, learn how to do preventative maintenance, and how to ask questions, and listen to the words of experience.  Not everything is on the net, so often you need to listen to the voice of experience.

Cheers!

Stuart

Sent from my electronic umbilicus

On 2013-06-04, at 1:25 PM, Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

> Perhaps you should define what you mean by "best"... Ideally, you would
> remove ALL rust, replace whatever metal needed replacing, prime, paint,
> etc. I've seen lots of articles where people talk about taking shortcuts
> here and there, treating with POR15 and such, but the best long-term, and
> probably most expensive, method seems to be to remove ALL the rust.
> 
> Disclaimer: I don't do body work, know next to nothing about it short of
> what I have read, and leave that to the professionals.
> 
> Good luck!
> Marc
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 1:03 PM, Jim <jimogul70@gmail.com> 
>>