Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 00:21:02 -0400
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Reformatted Re: Lola's first test trip:
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2013060223341476@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
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At 11:34 PM 6/2/2013, Jeremy Stovin wrote:
>1. The side view mirrors. I doubt they are original, but they are
>solid arm, on a swivel ball base. Never had a problem before and not
>on the way over, but on the way back, not sure if it was the rain,
>the wind, or the increased speed, but about a third of the way in,
>they were pushed in. Tried to fix them, but they just pushed back in.
>Can something be done? Are they just worn and need to be replaced? If
>so, where do you recommend?
Bus Depot and others have aftermarket mirrors but the OEM ones are
superior. If you have OEM mirrors these photos
https://picasaweb.google.com/117189706757545167023/VanagonSideMirrorRepair
will show you how they're constructed and give my thoughts on
repairing them. Note that tightening the adjustment past the point
where the very short spring is coil bound will simply extract the hex
shaft from the mirror assembly. If the friction piece is free on the
shaft the spring gives plenty of tension.
>2. The sliding door: Worked fine, but not sure if it rust or dirt,
>but when you are closing the last 10in, it is the loudest screeching
>sound. Is this par for the course? Will WD-40 do the trick? (pretty
>sure it is the bottom)
Ken Wilford's video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1i-Jt2dM1X4
>3. Water Temp: I am sure it is ok, but wanted to run this by you.
Unlike many modern vehicles, the Vanagon temperature is controlled
over a fairly wide range. The gauge will rise a couple needle widths
before the fan comes on, and yet more before the fan shifts to high
speed -- and at that point the engine thermostat is still not completely open.
On typical vans the gauge rides a bit higher than you've
stated. This could be gauge calibration or temp sender issue, or it
could be that a PO has installed a low temp (80C) thermostat instead
of the proper 87C one. This is a poor idea IMO.
Beware when working with thermostats - many/most aftermarket
thermostats listed for the Vanagon are not correct. If the
thermostat you are shown has a weep hole/check ball in the large
diameter plate or does not have a rubber gasket on the moving
element, it's the wrong one. It will physically fit but not work correctly.
>7. THE AUX BATTERY!! Just when I think I have this figured out, I
>have no idea. There were some modifications originally made when I
>got it and I did add a Yandina combiner last summer. When I first got
>it, I was going to change the battery, thinking it is bad, but then
>thought it was another problem.
Put up a schematic of how everything is presently wired and we may be
able to help. I can host it for you if necessary.
>Here are the issues. I know the original fridge is a piece of crap
>and one trick I learned was to plug it in and turn it on the night
>before to get it cool, then switch it to battery on route. I have a
>fridge thermometer in there to check. It is working. Also the night
>before I use my multimeter and check the aux battery and it clocks in
>at 12v.
Voltage measurements for battery state of charge are only accurate if
the battery has rested with no load for 24 hours, and vary depending
on battery chemistry and construction, and temperature. Here's an
article that can give inspiration on combining use of a voltmeter
with your abilities as a detective to understand the state of your
batteries.
http://www.arttec.net/Solar_Mower/4_Electrical/Battery%20Charging.pdf
A rested battery showing 12.0 volts with no load has well under half
charge. By 11.7-11.8 volts it is fully discharged.
Incidentally, unless you have a rooted objection to running the
fridge on gas while you're going down the road, you'll find it works
much better that way.
> I switch the battery check and it is green.
If you're talking about the LED panel on the kitchen unit, it's
normally set to show green at 12.5 V or above (adjustable). Whatever
the green light threshold is, the other two are half and one volts
below it. This will give some vague idea of charge state when it has
not just been charging and there's a light load running, say C/10 in
amps where C is the rated amp hour capacity of the battery.
>the aux). Also, on the way back I had my wife check the Yandina
>while driving and there was no light on. I am not sure if that means
>it is not working or it shut off because it thinks it is charged. ANY
>IDEAS?? This has left me baffled and stupid.
You really need to trace how all this stuff is wired together, and
get hold of a manual for the charge combiner. Manuals are available
at http://yandina.com/
Yours,
David
