Date:         Thu, 13 Jun 2013 09:28:44 -0700
Reply-To:     Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Dometic-Condenser fan running!
In-Reply-To:  <vanagon%2013061310004576@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Pardon my confusion on this David and all.  I think I like the idea of this
extra thermo switch but
is the fan needed for DC or AC operation or just propane operation only?
If it's only required
for propane operation I would think that the switch on the from panel wired
in conjunction with
turning on the fan would be a good fix as well.   If the fan needs to be on
with the AC operation
then again, having it connected via some circuit changes to the matching
front switch for AC
operation as well would be the way to go.   Again, I may be missing
something here but the
switches for operation are in place and it seems to be can be used to tell
when the fan should
operate or not?   Please enlighten me if I'm going astray here....

Steven
91 Westy


On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 7:00 AM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> At 01:27 AM 6/13/2013, Jeff Palmer wrote:
>
>> Keith if I'm understanding Dennis right, the fan will come on
>> regardless of whether or not you've 'flipped the switch' to turn the
>> fridge on, right?
>>
>> Or have i had one too many late night beverages?
>>
>
> Jeff, it's a completely independent system, runs through the kitchen
> circuit.  It draws about fifty milliamps when the fan is
> running.  That's about 1.2 amp hours per day of continuous running.
>
> If you think about it, setting things up to only run when the fridge
> is active would be a considerable extra expense.   If it were a
> DC-only fridge it would be different, but it's primarily a gas fridge
> and also has AC capability.
>
> You could make it automatic by adding an additional thermostat in
> series at the boiler that would only trip when the boiler is hot.  I
> don't know what its working temperature is but I'm sure there's a
> value that would reliably indicate boiler-on but not trip from solar
> heating.  If Westfalia had been really clever they could have
> specified this when they bought the fridges, and the total extra cost
> would have been a few dollars.  But that would have translated into a
> noticeable difference in the package price.  But you could retrofit
> it.  Here's a 170F button-type thermal switch for $15 shipped in the
> US.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Selco-**CA170-Thermal-Switch-to-**
> Control-AC-or-DC-Circuits-/**390607352286?pt=LH_**DefaultDomain_0&hash=**
> item5af20331de<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Selco-CA170-Thermal-Switch-to-Control-AC-or-DC-Circuits-/390607352286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af20331de>
> .  I suspect that 170F would fit the requirements.
>
> Yours,
> David
>